Offset Semi-scratch Thingamajig.

[impala59]

I would like to emulate your heel transition in one of my future builds as I am sure it makes playing the upper register much more comfortable. Would you be so kind as to detail the fixing? It appears that you have cut in flat for a washer, will you then fit a pan head screw or do you use screw cups/ferrules with countersunk screws? Have you ever used the threaded inserts with machine screws? Your rebates seem quite large, I guess to spread the load as much as possible. Is there any potential weakness in not using a clamping neck plate?
Sorry to pick your brain but I do like the look of your neck join

[Sonic Mountain]

Hey All good, that's what this forum is for!

So basically it's standard neck screws, which I usually have to shorten a little and then ferrules like these:



I haven't used threaded inserts and I'm not sure I see the advantage unless you are taking the neck on and off a lot. I also wonder about whether the splines on the receivers give as much grab as a screw thread, but they are used in commercial guitars so it must be enough.

There really isn't any disadvantage to ditching the neck plate, all it's there for is to act as a washer to stop the screw heads potentially pulling through and to keep things tidy. The strength of the joint has more to do with clamping force. The ferrules provide plenty of force distribution.

The rebate is a bit bigger on this one, mostly because I had my template a little far south on the body. But it was done to follow the existing heel area on the neck. More surface area is better for stability, but it's a bit of a compromise with upper fret access. This particular body shape would allow it to be smaller as there is a lot of meat on the high E side. That said, on the deluxster it was quite a bit smaller and that seems totally fine.

[impala59]

Brilliant!
Thank you

[FrankenWashie]

I’ve used small brass inserts with m6 low head capscrews on a couple of builds/reworks.

The ones I use are just splined, but a close fit and judicious use of epoxy sets them rock solid.

You can get knife edge threaded ones that screw in, they are a specialist woodworking device and they are quite expensive but they work well.


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[Sonic Mountain]

Well the black fill kinda worked...sorta. To heck with it, it's a feature not a bug.

Stain on.

[dozymuppet]

Looks great

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[Sonic Mountain]

Cheers, first sealing coat of satin poly on. Debating how much I'll bother filling the grain. I'm thinking maybe just a light knock back and one more coat, but I'll see how it looks once it dries.

[Sonic Mountain]

Started polishing up the scratch plate. Fair bit more work to do, but I think it's going to look nice. Considering maybe some gold knurled knobs. Still a bit undecided as to whether I should cut a fresh one. I'll wait until the neck is sorted and back on it and re visit the fit I guess.

Also does anyone have any gold kit tuners lying around they'd be willing to part with? 3+ 3+ or 6 in a row, doesn't matter, I just want to swap some of the gold bits onto the silver ones I have to get a few highlights up that end of the guitar.

[Sonic Mountain]

Head stock refined, frets in.

First time trimming and shaping the frets before installing. Went pretty ok, got better as I went. Bit of a tedious process, but I think it will be worth it. As the slot end is filled, I trimmed in a bit on the tang, which means some of them sit up a little when installed. Probably needed a little more radius, but a dot of CA seems to be doing the trick. Started on a fret level and dress. Might wait until its finished before revisiting that.

Pretty happy with the body as is. And thinking I'll leave the scratch plate at about this level as it's only going to get scratched up and marked anyway.

[McCreed]

Looks good. I like the headstock shape.

First time trimming and shaping the frets before installing.

Just curious, how did you do it before?
I can't imagine doing it any other way.