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Thread: Sikkends First Build! GMS-7F Pitbull.

  1. #1

    Sikkends First Build! GMS-7F Pitbull.

    Hello everyone first time poster here. I just received my GMS-7F Kit, pretty excited to build a guitar, been playing for around 20 years (off and on) and just recently thought about building one. So I stumbled onto Pitbull Guitars so I pulled the trigger pretty quick. So far customer service has been awesome as I Have some issues straight away. I'm going to push through them as best as I can but thought I would post pics to see if anyone has seen these issues (which I think are fairly minor) and perhaps give advise on what can be done. Pretty much the body of the guitar is pretty solid with only minor touch ups needed, The neck however got a little damaged in shipping on the head stock, but then the fretboard its self seems damaged by something, some of the frets are not seated quite perfect, again minor... any ways have a look and let me know what you think.
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    I was hoping no one would say that, Cant find that neck with that headstock on the site.

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Pit Bull should send you out another if you email them with those pictures. They've already replaced one so far of the three similar kits that have builds posted on here, and yours should make a second.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Pit Bull should send you out another if you email them with those pictures. They've already replaced one so far of the three similar kits that have builds posted on here, and yours should make a second.
    I will send them an email and see what they say, Ill keep posted. Just a bummer cause I really wanted to get to work on it.
    Last edited by Sikkends; 24-10-2020 at 02:26 AM.

  7. #7
    Well I emailed them and they do not have any necks in stock right now, they can order one but would be looking at several weeks before I would receive it, It does seem as though they plan to compensate me though. Soooo, guess I will get started with what I have now and if nothing else use it as a learning experience, Plan to burst it Like down below except to a green rather than red, Advice on that would be nice if anyone has it, The back will be painted by my artist buddy who does amazing things, Gonna do a Viking theme on it I think. So hopefully it all comes out looking and playing right.
    Does anyone have advise on removing the frets so I can attempt to repair my fret board? Any ways Ill post pics as I go.
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  8. #8
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Hey, for pulling frets I use one of these:

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-2...plier_p0126938

    You will need to grind down the 'front' of the pincer so it sits flat against the fret board and the cutting part can get under the fret. It can be an idea to heat the frets up with a soldering iron as you go to loosen any glue, but I've managed to pull them out pretty easily without doing that. Just go easy and watch for splintering. If you catch those bits (there are always a couple) it's pretty easy to superglue them back in and sand it all nice and flat with all the frets out. Also if you give it a bit of a radius sand you should get plenty of sawdust to use to patch those problem areas with some CA and sawdust, then sand again and it should be apples.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  9. #9
    Member
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    I'd be curious to know how to get that kind of contrast on veneer, since I'd like to do something like a deep red and black with lots of contrast on an (slightly customized) FV-1G eventually. Seems like it's easier on a maple cap since you can sand it more for depth.
    1. GS-2Q
    2. EXM-1 custom
    3. GMS-7F

  10. #10
    To get that burst.. get black ink (stamp pad ink is good) apply with a rag, go over until it is nice and dark.
    Sand it back and you will have those nice black figuring lines.
    Then use green ink or stain and go over many times lighter in the middle, darker on edges. Probably use a bit of black around out side.
    That is how it is done but a better way to get the green is use the "metal cast" paint from an auto store that is made for metallic/ candy paint. Just by the green paint and not the metal base coat.
    Coat until you have the depth of green you want.
    This gives a beautiful transparent colour so you can still see the grain figuring.
    Done both ways many times with great results. A heap of clear coats, sanding between. Wax with vehicle scratch and swirl remover, buff to mirror finish.

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