Hi everyone
Thinking of doing a 12 string for my next build, has anyone completed one of these? Trying to find posts but I can’t seem to find any
Thanks
Hi everyone
Thinking of doing a 12 string for my next build, has anyone completed one of these? Trying to find posts but I can’t seem to find any
Thanks
RCM-12.... by Gary B.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8885
TLA-12 .... by me
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8444
Hope this helps
Builds-
#18 PBG GSH-1R https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=10236
#17 PBG PBA-4 https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9984
#16 PBG IB-1Q http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8754
#15 PBG TLA-12 http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8444
#14 PBG PRS-1H
#11 Scratch build AC15 clone headhttps://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=7686
#09 PBG ES-1TL
#07 partscaster Alder Denim Tele.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
The ES-1 12 string seems to no longer be available from PBG, at least ATM.
The bridge on the TL-12s is poor and really needs to be upgraded to the Gotoh bridge it is a bad copy of (unless the bridge has been upgraded very recently as there were a few complaints).
Thanks for this everyone! Gives me a nice amount of reading
im thinking of getting a custom order, ATL-1FB “THINLINE in a 12 string
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ic-guitar-kit/
As i would like a semi hollow style TL, would it be wise for me to ask for the holes to be drilled for string through or should i do this myself, as simon has suggested i get the gotoh 12 string bridge. i'm not sure if things would line up properly. thats if this model can have a string through.
thanks
Last edited by Barry snook; 18-10-2020 at 06:35 PM.
Someone else can probably chime in to confirm but I expect that the centre strip of the guitar would be solid. Have a look at my scratch tele thinline build and you will see the inside of my one, I would expect the pitbull kit semi-hollows to have similar chambering.
With regards to the string through holes and whether you should do it yourself, do you have access to a drill press?
Here is some useful links for drilling string through holes.
https://reverb.com/item/1008819-tele...e-luthier-tool
https://www.tdpri.com/threads/drilli...s-help.704327/
Build #1 - TLA-1Q
Build #2 - Scratch Thinline Tele
Build #3 - Scratch Rickenbacker 330/12
Build #4 - Scratch All Aussie Timber Strat
Build #5 - 1st Violin/Fiddle
Pedal Build #1 - Aion Gale
Pedal Build #2 - Aion Aurora
You’d get 6 strings through the body and 6 strings that top load, both with the kit bridge and the Gotoh one. There isn’t room for all 12 strings to string-through) The kit bridge used to date is dimensionally identical to the Gotoh, but the saddle heights for each string pair are different by 1-1.5mm (they should be the same) and the holes that should allow the bridge to be intonated correctly for R/H use aren’t tapped for the screw, so proper intonation can only be achieved if used on a L/H guitar or you swap out the nut and fit the string pairs the Rickenbacker way with the heavy string at the top (though the string heights will still be different so playing up the neck will be awkward).
The factory isn’t well known for getting its string-through holes lined up very well, so you may feel happier drilling the holes yourself. It’s not too hard to do and you’ve a much better chance of getting your ferrules in a nice straight line.
Thanks for that, no access to a drill press, but i'm fairly sure with the help from those links i would be able to manage it.
You have some skills with that scratch build, and also recovering from that split!!! good to see the inside, i'm pretty sure this would be similar.
I've used a basic drill stand with a normal drill to do it very well, just setting it up to drill through the hole at the bottom of the stand. Use the bridge holes as a template for marking the positions on the top, then drill the two E string holes all the way through and the four inner holes 2/3 the way though. Then turn the body over, use the two E string holes to line up the bridge, then again use the bridge holes to mark the 4 inner string hole positions, and drill those through about halfway until the holes line up. That way your top and rear string holes should be in a nice straight line.