I'm on the Central Coast of NSW which has a very similar climate to Perth. Almost on opposite sides of the island. We are also going into summer so hopefully that will help with drying.
I'm on the Central Coast of NSW which has a very similar climate to Perth. Almost on opposite sides of the island. We are also going into summer so hopefully that will help with drying.
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Hi Folks,
Quick question about sanding.
I'm reading conflicting information about sanding grits.
The Pit-Bull guide says to start at 120-180 but not to sand beyond 220grit to leave some tooth for the finish.
The Dingotone instruction pdf says to sand to 240grit.
The Dingotone video says to go to 400grit.
Any advice is appreciated as always or is it just a case of 'see how it feels/every kit is different?
The body on my kit is mahogany with white binding and I'm finishing with Dingotone Kajirini red.
Cheers,
Graham
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I have not used the Dingotone products, but IMO the final grit depends on what type of finish is going to be applied.
For a stain/dye I would stop at a finer aggregate (say P 400) than if I was going to be applying a primer/paint finish (P240).
Using a stain/dye is going to raise the grain to some degree after applying to the timber. More or less dependant on whether it's water based, oil or alcohol based (water based is typically the most significant).
The raised timber fibres will need to be knocked back (lightly) with either a fine grade paper or synthetic sanding pad. I usually do it before each application of colour, or at very least before the clear coat is applied.
FWIW, Mahogany tends to be quite a porous timber and generally requires grain filling if going for a smooth high gloss finish. If not grain filled, it will require many many coats of clear top coat to achieve the same glossy result which can present its own set of problems. If you want a textured, rustic sort of look, then no problem.
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Here is the test fitting of the neck:
Looks okay to me, scale length is good (314mm measurement for a 628mm scale length), string alignment looks good.
The strings are sitting low on the frets but the bridge and saddles are sitting low (wrapped in masking tape for the purpose of the mock build), they should be raised by a few mm when the posts are inserted.
I anyone sees anything obviously wrong, please let me know before I drill the holes in the neck!!
Last edited by grahamjohnston80; 22-11-2020 at 03:08 PM.
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I can’t see anything wrong myself, looking good.
P240 grit is probably the most I’d go to for sanding before a stain. Whilst the results vary according to the wood type, grits above P240 can start to burnish the surface of some woods in patches, especially if pressed down with some force, resulting in uneven stain take-up. At this stage of the process, it’s far more important for the sanding process to get rid of a) any machining marks b) obvious coarse sanding scratch marks and c) to get the flat surfaces as flat as possible with no undulations and the curved surfaces to have an even a curve as possible.
Getting the surfaces as smooth and shiny as possible (if not going for a matt or satin finish) should be left to the later stages, once your final finish coats have been applied.
With the black hardware, you’ll need to scratch it off in places where posts and bridge touch as it’s not conductive paint, and you won’t get the bridge and strings grounded without doing it. You’ll need to use a multimeter to check this. If you are fitting low impedance active pickups like EMGs, then you don’t need to ground the bridge and strings, but for standard passive high-impedance pickups, it will make things electrically quieter.
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Even the cheap ones have a continuity beep setting (don't get one without it), which makes it easy to check whether there's a good ground path.
It's great you got your half scale length spot on, but just remember the overall length is the critical measurement. Your 12th fret measurement can be 1mm long or short and can still intonate correctly when you're done. I always go by the full length measurement as my final target.
To my eye (could be different IRL) the neck alignment looks like the treble E could go a tiny smidge inward, but you're not gluing yet so not critical right now. At least you have an idea of the fit at this point and the alignment won't be an issue.
I agree that variations in timber are a consideration but FWIW, I've not had an issue using 400 before stain on Mahogony, Maple, Basswood or Ash. Maybe because I am light handed with it, or maybe I've just been lucky.Whilst the results vary according to the wood type, grits above P240 can start to burnish the surface of some woods in patches, especially if pressed down with some force, resulting in uneven stain take-up.
Worth noting that I've not encountered adhesion issues with the clear coat after either, but TBH most of the clear over stain I've done has been hand applied so that may make a difference there.
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