1st Build IC-1

[grahamjohnston80]

Thank Waz,
The Bass looks really nice. I wouldn't be unhappy with that finish.

I've spent the last few weeks applying Tru-oil, 1 coat a day, 2 coats on Saturdays and Sundays when I'm home.
It has really deepened the colour of the body. This is how it's looking after 13 coats and some light wet-sanding in between (every 3-4 coats). I plan to go to at least 20 coats, depending on how things look and feel.





The neck is a bit further ahead. After using the Dingotone colourless finish, I have applied 25 coats of Tru-oil. Again, with wet-sanding up through the grades up to 2000grit. Then a rub with the micro-mesh pads (https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/m...arist-kit.html) and a few coats of 50/50 turps/TO mix. It is feeling and looking great. Maybe another sand with the micro mesh, one more coat and a final polish to finish off.

[dozymuppet]

That's coming together very nicely.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[wazkelly]

Neck looks to be almost done.

Body could do with applying TO (just a couple of drops of turps) with probably 1500 or 2000 grit Wet & Dry.

[grahamjohnston80]

Body could do with applying TO (just a couple of drops of turps) with probably 1500 or 2000 grit Wet & Dry.

Hi Waz,
Do you mean applying the TO/turp mix with the sandpaper
or
Wet sanding between coats?

I have read many different methods of applying TO.
Cheers,

Graham

[wazkelly]

Apply with sandpaper for 2 coats and then check where things are at.

It will help to wet sand as you apply the TO and thus speed up the process.

[grahamjohnston80]

Awesome, Thank you.

[wazkelly]

Remember, only a couple of drop of turps. Doesn't need to be 50:50

[FrankenWashie]

That’s looking slick Graham, great job!

[McCreed]

I can see some benefit in Waz's suggestion as I have done a similar thing myself.
However I have only done this on bare timber (mostly mahogany) with coarser paper as way of grain filling. It's known as the slurry method where the finish material (Tru Oil, shellac) gets mixed together with the wood dust, creating a slurry which is deposited into the grain pores. Then level sanded and repeated as necessary. What Waz has said is using the same principle, except the slurry is going to be Tru Oil dust mixed with liquid Tru Oil which I guess can work too. Though IMO it's a bit like grain filling by spraying more paint or clear coat.

As for wet sanding (w/ water) between coats, with Tru Oil or any finish, I don't see any advantage to it.
While wet sanding does level the surface, it also has more of a polishing effect. Finishes like Tru Oil, poly, shellac do have some level of chemical bonding due to small amounts of solvent, but there is more of a mechanical bond between coats.

Light dry sanding between coats to remove dust nibs or debris is better because it also abrades the surface which aids the mechanical bonding (adhesion) of subsequent coats. I don't sand between every coat with hand-applied finishes like TO and poly, but I will do it every 3-4 or 6-8 depending on how it's building or feeling.
Any wet sanding is done after the final coat has fully dried.

As with all things YMMV.

EDIT:
And I forgot to say that it is looking good Graham!

[wazkelly]

40 or more coats on this one that came up like glass using method mentioned before.
Don't mean to be picky but surface of the Iceman still showed grain pores and they will not easily go away through dry sanding which mostly clogs the sandpaper.
Wouldn't offer suggestions that i haven't already done and that have been proven to work, something that has been refined over 7 builds and more than 200 coats applied.
Everyone is entitled to an opinion, mine is coming from many hours of experience.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk