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Thread: Build 2 - hollow body

  1. #1

    Build 2 - hollow body

    Build 1 has been put to the side in mild disgrace so I can contemplate it’s future , press on or sand back.... got the poly on with a coat every day this week. Had a couple of little runs near the edge. So wet sanded 1000, and went through......

    So thought we’d start a harder build and see how that goes...

    Going pretty well so far. Rubbed back 240 and tried to highlight the grain with metho-diluted fw prooftint black, tried a burst outline . rubbed back again at 240 then tried rustoleum barn red stain over the top. Not keen on this as it’s a bit sticky and yuck but I’ve been waiting a month so far for keda dyes so that’s what I could get ...

    Neck sanded 240 and stained golden teak



    Seems to look ok probably only downer is that the maple veneer on left half is obviously better than right half.








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    Last edited by GavinPinksterboer; 19-09-2020 at 02:52 PM.

  2. #2
    Finished applying the poly to the body , have scraped bindings and cut and polished. Just not sure if I kept applying the poly that will fill
    the pores in the timber and make it glassy or it’s ok as it is because I should have grain filled it to begin with?










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  3. #3
    Member
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    Apr 2020
    Location
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    Hi Gavin
    Really this thread should be in 'My Build Diary'.

    Sorry to hear about your first build. I know it is frustrating when things like that happen but those same things also make us stronger!

    I like the colour on your flame maple - very rich looking.
    If you want a glass like finish then you will need quite a few more coats before you attempt to cut back and polish but it is worth the effort and time.

    Maple is a close grained wood and as such does not need a grain filler. Furthermore, attempting to grain fill figured maple will disguise the flaming and make it appear very plain.

    Be careful when sanding veneer. It is supposed to be 0.6mm thick which is very thin anyway but as it is already sanded in the factory it could well be only 0.3mm thick on the horns. Those are the areas that you have already sanded a few times so do not risk anymore sanding.
    Several people on here have sanded through in that very area.

    Good luck. It is coming along well.

    Cheers
    Ricky

  4. #4
    Thanks for the advice Ricky , I’ll clean it with wax and grease remover give it a really light scuff over and keep going with poly.

    Still learning how to use the forum thing haven’t done this before either hence posting in wrong place

    Build one has been revived into satin finish flat black and is looking killer now.

    Build 3 arrived yesterday and 4 is on its way.

    My 3rd guitar lesson is tomorrow....I can’t even play . But I’m hooked


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  5. Liked by: Joe Garfield

  6. #5
    Take 2. Rubbed back until it was totally flat . Then I’ve Re coated it with cabothane clear gloss. Rub that back again until totally flat with 2500 wet rub. Polished it with Meguiars ultimate compound then coated the whole body with ceramic polymer coated I use on cars.







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  7. Liked by: Joe Garfield

  8. #6
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Jul 2017
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld.
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    3,261
    Gorgeous! Nice work.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  9. #7

  10. #8
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Jan 2016
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    Glebe, NSW
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    Oh my lawdy lawd thats a shiny shiny! Fantastic work!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  11. #9
    Member
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    Apr 2020
    Location
    Honolulu, HI
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    229
    When the finish on your guitar comes out better than the finish on the chrome hardware, you know you're doing something right!

    Nice work!
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

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