Build 3 - FBM-1

[Trevor Davies]

Hi ,
Would a string tree fix the problem, or is it not actually a problem?

Regards

[Simon Barden]

The headstock is angled back, so a string tree shouldn't be necessary. Also, with the large truss-rod cover that normally goes on a Firebird (missing from the above photos), there's not a lot of space to fit one.

Noticeable string resonance on the headstock isn't something I've come across on my guitars, so i wouldn't say it's normal, but then again, my hearing isn't great (badly damaged in a full volume open mic feedback situation during a PA setup test at home) so I may well miss things that others will hear.

But I have seen some people fit a bit of foam between the strings to stop ringing, so it must happen on some guitars. So that's one solution, practical, if unsightly.

It may be a problem with the way the nut's cut, allowing some string energy to pass over the nut and into the string beyond. It may be exacerbated by it being a hollow plastic nut, so swapping to a bone or dense Tusq nut may cure it. In addition, open strings should sound better with a change of nut material. It's really a situation where having your own nut files is beneficial, but they are very expensive for what they are. However, there are no decent cheap alternatives that I've found to the normal selection of Japanese made files. But some fine wet and dry paper, folded in two, and run along the bottom of the slot will help clear away any rough areas which may help with the problem.

I don't think you have locking tuners fitted, in which case using a few more wraps around the posts next time you change the strings, will bring the string position down where it leaves the post, and add a bit more downward pressure to the string as it goes over the nut. I try to get roughly 3 turns around my posts. This may also help with the resonating string issue.

Apart from the foam, the rest are all suggestions which may help with the issue, but no guarantees. But they shouldn't make things worse and it always helps to have the smoothest nut slots you can, not flat but angled back towards the headstock, if only for increased tuning stability.

[McCreed]

Simon's post above is everything I would have suggested if I weren't so damn lazy .

I'll just highlight a couple of bits:

It may be a problem with the way the nut's cut

THIS. Check your string slots in the nut. make sure there string/nut contact the full length of the slot.
Nut work takes time to get right (especially if not done on a regular basis). I'm not saying I've perfected it by any means, but lately I've been able to cut strat nuts and not require any string trees.

+1 on the nut material also.

...in which case using a few more wraps around the posts next time you change the strings, will bring the string position down where it leaves the post, and add a bit more downward pressure to the string as it goes over the nut. I try to get roughly 3 turns around my posts.

I go 3 on E - D, and 4+ on G - E (unwound strings).

But I have seen some people fit a bit of foam between the strings to stop ringing, so it must happen on some guitars. So that's one solution, practical, if unsightly.

Agreed that it looks pretty dodge, but another alternative that is less visually obtrusive, is an elastic hair tie. Just slip it over the headstock and position it just above the nut.
The thicker ones work the best and you can get them in black (or other colours) so they kind of blend in.

[Trevor Davies]

Thanks Simon and McCreed for your replies,
I'll try and remember to try more post wraps when adding strings.

There is quite a decent break angle from the nut to the tuners.

The E, A and D strings seem quite flat in the nut, so I will try to angle the slots down to the same angle of the headstock. I have the needle type nut files (a good set is on my wish list - but it is a looooong list!)

If this does not work I will look into a bone nut.

In the meantime, placing my capo across the headstock and strings fixes the problem. Maybe this is a convenient place to store the capo so that it is always on hand

[McCreed]

In the meantime, placing my capo across the headstock and strings fixes the problem. Maybe this is a convenient place to store the capo so that it is always on hand

I'd try the hair tie trick. It won't put enough pressure on the strings to effect the tuning, but just enough to dampen the vibration above the nut.

[Trevor Davies]

Today I attacked the nut and filed the back of the nut slots for the E A D & G strings at an angle to try to match the break angle. The needle type files are quite difficult to use with any precision - so a good set of nut files in now higher up on my wishlist.

The good news is that has made a big difference to the strings on the headstock resonating, and there is less buzzing while playing open strings.

Thanks again for the suggestions Simon and McCreed.

[Trevor Davies]

I have started playing around with creating some logos for my builds. Still not sure exactly what I want!

I tried using the laser printout with packing tape method and was blown away by how easy it was. I will still need to give a clear coat of something to fix them on permanently.

Maybe the FB design is a bit big!
The headstock is from my explorer rebuild.

[Trevor Davies]

Some 3 ply pick guard material arrived in the post, so I have been able to complete my truss rod cover.
The material was taped to my template with doubles sided tap. I used a router table with a trim bit, followed by a 45 degree bit.
Now I need to add a logo.

[McCreed]

That's a crazy truss rod cover... but I like it! Good work!

[JohnH]

Ooh, yeah I really dig that TR cover too