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Thread: In Need Of Advise Re Staining/Clearcoat

  1. #1

    In Need Of Advise Re Staining/Clearcoat

    I've read so many threads here that I'm now suffering from too much information syndrome and I've managed to twist my brain into tiny little knots. I'll try to simplify this...

    I've just received my AG-1F (basswood body, maple flame-top, maple neck). This is my second effort at staining a flame-top. The first time I had no idea what I was doing and the result shows. I still have no idea what I'm doing, but I have a lot more information behind that lack of a clue.

    My goal is to put on this lovely red dingotone and bring out the flame nicely, and then to apply a nice polishable, clear gloss finish. My concern is around the application of a sanding sealer. I'm just not sure when (or if) to apply this. My concern is that if it goes on before the stain, it will prevent the stain from penetrating properly and give an uneven finish. But on the other hand, if it goes on after the stain, will it ruin the colour and appearance of the finish?

    I'm usually one for solid colours where you don't care so much as long as you get it flat in the end.

  2. #2
    Member
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    Maple is a close-grain wood and as such does not really need a sanding sealer.
    In fact, sanding sealer will seal the maple evenly and prevent the dye from penetrating the features of the flame thereby giving you a rather flat look to the dye.
    The flame is brought out by the different densities of the wood accepting the stain in different amounts.

    If you just wet the top with meths/metho or whatever you call it in your part of the world then that will give you a good indication of your finished result.
    I have done 3 flame or quilted maple tops to date and still I am learning so I am not an expert.

    Consider a first coat of black stain or something and then rub most of it off and lightly sand. This will give more contrast to your red.
    Lots of posts on here where people have done amazing stain finishes so just take your time and read them before you dive in and apply colour.
    (Take it VERY easy on the sanding - that veneer can be much less than 0.6mm thick in some places).

    Good luck
    Cheers
    Ricky

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Good advice from Ricky and I also would not use a sanding sealer on the veneer.
    Wiping it down with metho will also allow you to see any glue spots the may have seeped through seems or just got smeared on the top.
    If you have any glue spots, you'll need to thoroughly clean those off before applying any colour. Common practise is Goof-Off (near 100% acetone) and a small stiff plastic-bristled brush.

    As for the sanding part, my preferred method is with synthetic sanding pads (aka: "synthetic steel wool"). They are available in varying coarseness, though unfortunately not in most hardware stores. FWIW the "green" Scotch-Brite pads from Coles or Woolies are roughly (no pun intended) about the equivalent of P400.

    I've rattled on about synthetic sanding pads vs sand paper in numerous posts. Probably to the point of ad nauseam .
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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