The SG jr Deluxe is all together and looks stunning ( I will post pics)
But, the nut isn't high enough so what do I shim it with? (It's also at an angle)
And, even though it's shielded it buzzes like a mother, do I need to earth the shielding?
I've played it as it is and it is a great little guitar, even un intonated and with terrible fret buzz it sounds good.
A new nut is the absolute fix for one that's too low, but not always practical/economical/necessary.But, the nut isn't high enough so what do I shim it with? (It's also at an angle)
I (and many others) use timber veneer for shimming a nut (or nearly anything really).
However, shimming a G-style nut can be tricky if the forward edge of the slot (headstock side) is real shallow.
Some neck nut slots just aren't cut that deep, others are plenty.
That said, it's not imperative that the front of the nut be totally "in" the slot (especially with a well fitted truss rod cover). It's just my preference and what I've seen most commonly.
By "at an angle" do you mean it the nut doesn't sit squarely in the neck nut slot? (ie: a gap under the nut when it's fitted tight to the end of the fretboard).
If that's correct it can be addressed a few ways, but since you need to put in a shim anyway, I would just taper my shim so it's a wedge shape. This will accomplish two things at once. Raise the nut height and fill the gap under the nut.
Do you have a ground wire connected to one of the bridge post?And, even though it's shielded it buzzes like a mother, do I need to earth the shielding?
Does the buzz go away when you touch any metal parts like strings or bridge, or does it buzz all of the time?
Presuming you have a multimeter, I would first check for continuity between all your grounds and metal components.
The shielding should be grounded by default via its contact with the pots, but in some cases you may need to physically connect the shielding between the pickup cavity and control cavity with a bit of wire.
Let us know what you find.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Thanks for the detailed reply.
Yes there is a v shaped gap under the nut when it's up against the end of the fretboard which makes it an awkward shape to shim, I don't have any veneer so I will improvise.
I did ground it to a bridge post as far as that can be hit or miss! And the buzz doesn't go away when I touch any metal parts.
I dont have a multimeter so I can't check that.
I'll try connecting the two cavities, can I solder to the copper tape?
Double-check that the hot and ground aren't reversed on your output jack, that can cause a constant buzz.
Yes, you can solder to copper tape.
Scott.
Thanks Scott
Good advice from Weirdbits! I didn't think to mention that.
re: veneer - If not for this guitar, you'd do yourself a favour to get some for the next one (there's always a next one) or just to have on hand for other guitars you have. It has 1001 uses.
If you visit the nearest local joinery/cabinet maker and ask to buy some "edging off cuts", they'll generally fish some out of the bin and give it to you, or charge you 2 bucks for a stupidly long amount. This has been my experience anyway. A one foot long piece can last years.
re: multimeter - Again, if you plan on building or even modifying more guitars, a DMM is well at the top of the list of tools to have (remember - there's always a next one). You can get a decent one for around $50 and you'll wonder why you never got one sooner. Another thing that has 1001 uses.
Here's one that's nearly identical to my Dick Smith one that I've had for 15+ years.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/cat-iii-mu...ature/p/QM1323
And, it has audible continuity, which is a real bonus IMO.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Ha Ha, I'm already looking at the next one.
My friendly joinery company was shut when I went down there on Monday and I was busy at work today and forgot to check.
I think you're right about a multimeter,I did have one but as I didn't know how to use it ,it seems to have disappeared.
Photos of the wiring would help. It's a very simple circuit, so not a lot to go wrong. But P90s are well known for being about the noisiest pickups around if there is electrical noise to pick up. But it does sound like you've probably got the output wires crossed but a missing ground from the back of a pot can also cause a similar problem.
I'd use a flat needle file to get the bottom of the nut area flat, then fit a new nut. The plastic kit one is pretty useless. You'll just need to look around for one with suitable dimensions. I use bone ones and normally get them via Amazon. You'll need to get ones with all the dimensions given as you'll need it the correct length and a minimum height. As long as the front-to-back width is sufficient you can always sand the curved side down to fit.
Well, I ordered the bone nut with the kit but didn't like the dimensions so I ordered one with better dimensions. By the time I got round to fitting it I put the Pit Bull one on by mistake causing the strings to buzz on the first fret. A few days later whilst comparing the nuts I have I realised what I had done, put the correct one on, and after a really easy set up have a really great low action guitar which stays in tune. The buzzing seems to have sorted its self out (apart from washing machine etc')
I'm really pleased with it.
Upgrades were Musiclily adjustable bridge, Vanson alnico 5 p 90, a pre wired quality harness,(Chinese) Grover tuners with green buttons,witch hat knobs, 3 ply black and white pick guard, 2 ply sg headstock cover and gold JR decal.
All hardware and screws in gold.
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