Grain Filler on Ash body

[Bradtb04]

Hi everyone,
I am working on an STA1M kit (Ash Stratocaster) and I am unsure how to go about filling the grain. I am going to use Timbermate filler, and I have seen some people on YouTube smearing filler over the entire body and scraping off the excess, then sanding it down. Should I do it this way or is there a better way you may know of? I would like to maintain a nice flat, smooth finish using Nitrocellulose. I look forward to hearing any replies.
Kind regards.

[dozymuppet]

That's the right way to go about applying and working with timbermate, however many don't get the smooth finish you're after with timbermate alone.

Timbermate is great for accentuating the ash grain, but it can still sink in to the grain during the rest of the finishing process.

You'll probably want to look at a sanding sealer in addition to the timbermate, if you're looking to use the timbermate for popping the grain as above. (I used the Birchwood Casey Sealer and Filler over the top of a stain, but there are other options)

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[Bradtb04]

Thanks Dozymuppet, I have got a nitro sanding sealer. So I apply the filler over the whole body, apply the sanding sealer and then primer and so on and so forth is that correct? Also, how many coats of sanding sealer should I use?

[Bradtb04]

Sorry, misread you message, I am using a solid colour so it does not matter if the grain is accentuated or not, do you think timbermate is not the right stuff, or if I apply it as said in my previous message will that work?

[dozymuppet]

I don't have specific experience with what you're planning, but there has been plenty of discussion around this recently https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9063

[Bradtb04]

Alright thanks for all your help

[king casey]

Sorry, misread you message, I am using a solid colour so it does not matter if the grain is accentuated or not, do you think timbermate is not the right stuff, or if I apply it as said in my previous message will that work?

If you are painting then from first hand experience best steer clear of Timbermate.
Even if it initially seems to level off, you wait some weeks and being water based it will sink.
This despite 'non-shrink' being printed on the label.
I know 'Sanding Sealer' and 'Grain Filler' are different.
I got a can of F&W sanding sealer and would probably require several coats to achieve the same with grain filler.
I'd like to know what would be the best 'Grain Filler' available to Aussie users.
The experts only seem to let you know what you shouldn't have used.

cheers, Mark.

[Bradtb04]

Thanks Mark, I know people who have had Timbermate stay level after it has dried and been sanded and there are no craters I am trying to fill, only where the grain is a bit wavy. Do you mean you used only the sanding sealer to fill it?
Thanks.

[king casey]

Thanks Mark, I know people who have had Timbermate stay level after it has dried and been sanded and there are no craters

Well you can't rule out dumb luck then.

I think if you put many coats on then sanding sealer should do it, but it would be better to use a dedicated 'Grain Filler'.

cheers, Mark.

[BigDaddy]

I've had good results with Timbermate to grain fill mahogany under solid and transparent nitro finishes - smooth as glass. The mahogany is nowhere near as open in grain structure as ash though. I have an ash strat kit in build that needs finishing so would like to hear what people suggest to do to get a nice flat finish with transparent or solid colour without running into compatibility issues.

With ash, I've heard of folks pre-treating the body with shellac > grain filling with timbermate > sanding > shellac again > nitro sealer coats > nitro colour > Nitro clear. I think the shellac is thought to stabilise the timbermate shrinkage. I've not tried this though. I was thinking about a clear epoxy or CA grain fill but like KC, don't know what products people have had success with in Australia.