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Thread: Building a Djent Lefty Guitar: Best Passive Pick Ups?

  1. #21
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Reading, UK
    Are you in Australia? If not wherabouts in the world? Just makes it easier to point you at suppliers somewhere in the same country at least (if possible).

  2. #22
    Sorry for not replying earlier. The way this forum works is very old school. I am not in Australia (I wish!). I'm currently living in Chicago, Illinois US.

  3. #23
    Also, the bare knuckle people got back to me (after a good month ) and made this diagram. Any thoughts on it?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #24
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    Jan 2013
    Itís a good diagram and great that they sent it to you. It shows that their coil connections on the Juggernauts arenít mirrored between the two pickups (the cross-over on the lower right poles of the switch), but their other general diagrams do appear to be mirrored. I used a mirrored layout based on those other diagrams, so mine would actually give you 1 inner and 1 outer coil in positions 2 and 4 rather than 2 inner or 2 outer.

    The rest of their layout is essentially the same just using an alternative way to make the connections, ie. linking the tone pot via the cap etc. Iíll mod my diagram in the next day or so with the changes so you can still have the option for the second push/pull and coil splits.

  5. #25
    You are legend, man.

    Simon, any thoughts on the wiring? bare knuckles has a bunch of stuff. Will def use their 5way switch and their capacitor, but was wondering about jacks and isolation paint for the inside. I've already laid down some copper tape, but idk if that is the best way to go. Thoughts?

  6. #26
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Updated diagram with the tweaks from BK's layout:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    With the altered diagram I've streamlined some of the connections so now there are only 4 wires going from the volume pot to the switch, whereas the old version had 6. That will make it a lot easier for wiring and reduce the bulk in the cavities.

    I altered the tone control so the capacitor becomes the link between the pots and adjusted the push/pull accordingly (it's still 'up' to disconnect). The 'light blue' on the cap legs is to indicate insulation, which is a good idea so the cap can't short on anything. I usually just strip some insulation off pieces of scrap wire and slide it onto the cap legs before soldering them in place. If you'd prefer to have the cap on the tone pot with a wire link to the volume, just wire it like it is in the first diagram.

    Regarding what type of wire to use, you have a few choices. The 'purple' and 'dark blue' wires both carry 'hot' signals and should therefore be shielded. The 'orange' is a switched ground and needs to be insulated so it can't short to ground when it isn't supposed to. The 'dark grey' is a standard ground connection wire and can be anything, insulated or bare. In a copper tape covered well shielded cavity you could get away with non-shielded 'hot' wires, but generally it's still better to have them shielded especially when using a lot of gain.

    You could use shielded push-back wire to carry your 'purple' hot (core) and 'dark grey' ground (braid), another length of shielded push-back for the 'dark blue' and then any 22/24 AG insulated wire for the 'orange'. The shielded push-back is great and durable, but it can be tricky to work with the shielding braid, and you have to be careful it can't short onto anything it shouldn't.

    An alternative is to use modern shielded 4-conductor wire. With this you could carry all your connections in a single cable, using core wires for your 'purple', 'dark blue' and 'orange', and the outer bare to carry your main ground. It's good wire for carrying many connections in a single cable but again can be tricky, especially with stripping the insulation and soldering the smaller core wires.

    In my opinion copper shielding is generally much better than conductive paint (which can require many coats), except in situations where you simply cannot use the tape due to the shape/area or don't want it to be seen.

    As for your parts, your Juggernauts and 2 x CTS Push Pull Short Shaft 550K pots will obviously come from Bare Knuckle (I'd get a couple of spare push/pulls if you can afford it, just in case). Their 0.022uF Jensen cap is nice, but extravagant for a cap.

    As you are in the US StewMac is a one-stop shop for you:
    - Switchcraft or PureTone mono jack.
    - Orange Drop 0.022uF capacitor.
    - 3 times as much wire as you think you'll need.
    - Knobs to match the CTS push/pulls, split-shaft fine knurling.
    - Oak Grigsby 5-way Super Switch.

    I've probably forgot something, but hopefully that covers most of your questions etc.

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