My technique for applying wipe on finishes (poly, tru oil) sucks... hoping for advice

[fender3x]

Everyone who has answered is more experienced than I am at doing this. So far, finding the "idiot proof" finish has eluded this idiot...So please take this FWIW, and if there is any controversy take the other advice!

One thing you mentioned is that you get lint spots where you take the rag off. I have started to use a little shellac (an idea I got from McCreed). Most of what I have read says (a) don't stop until you get to an edge and (b) don't let the cloth get tacky. Maybe the same is true with other wipe-on finishes?

As mentioned by others wipe on finishes are generally VERY thin. Also if applied to bare (or dye stained) wood, a lot of the first coats gets soaked into the wood which might partially explain why you see a color change, but the finish may still be super thin. The change in color can make you think the finish is thicker than it really is since some of the color is below the surface of the wood.

I am wondering about something you said about the way you are applying coats. I think you said that you apply when the underlying coat is still a little tacky and you sand every few coats. With minwax, as well (as with the acrylic I use) the directions are to let it dry for 2-3 hours, then sand lightly with 220. by that time it should not be tacky. I have never applied a 2nd clear coat over a tacky finish, although I have heard of doing it with paint.

Others may correct this, but I don't sand flat between coats. I just lightly "scuff sand"... I just make the surface slightly rough enough so that the next coat of finish sticks to it. I try not to flat sand until I have a lot of finish built up. If you flat sand between coats you may be sanding away too much finish, and will most likely need more coats.

What JimC said about "spots" resonated with me. Especially on my ES bass. The place I sanded through was on a "bump." Inadvertently, I was putting more pressure on the top of the bump than on the valleys and sanded right through. For the finish I have been using the mfg liked sanding pads like the Scotchbrites you mentioned. I have found that it is really easy to put more pressure on a high place or a curve than a low place. So any place I have a high spot, I now try to sand without putting much pressure on the pad. lightest of all on a run or drip. It takes a LOT longer, but I haven't yet had an accident with my current build.

All thought to put in the FWIW column ;-)

[Bakersdozen]

I've found these good to apply tru oil with;

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...d.php?p=181007

[ThatCluelessGerman]

Thanks everybody for your help!

I switched to a different poly (Minwax fast drying poly instead of Rustin's) and it's really drying very fast, so I can add more coats in the same amount of time.

I also tried a cotton pad to apply it, but it wasn't a good idea - much too much crud. Will try to find something better.

But, how would I now proceed best. I have MANY dust particles and stuff in the finish. So far, I'd now take a softer sanding pad/fleece and gently rub it off. But it would leave many fine scratches. Polishing them out is not working well, so I would need to add another coat of poly. And then introduce more dust and fuzzies. It's like an endless circle. How do I get out? If I try to sand out the scratches with finer and finer sandpaper (2000, 3000) like I did before, I'm afraid I'll break through the poly when polishing again.

[McCreed]

But, how would I now proceed best. I have MANY dust particles and stuff in the finish. So far, I'd now take a softer sanding pad/fleece and gently rub it off. But it would leave many fine scratches. Polishing them out is not working well, so I would need to add another coat of poly. And then introduce more dust and fuzzies. It's like an endless circle. How do I get out? If I try to sand out the scratches with finer and finer sandpaper (2000, 3000) like I did before, I'm afraid I'll break through the poly when polishing again.

Depending on the size, type and colour of the debris, you may have to just live with it to some degree. Maybe sand back a couple of coats to remove as much of the particles as you can and re-apply with your new poly and good lint-free material.
Just bed-in the stuff that's in the previous layers. A lot of it may not be that noticeable if it's buried deep enough. Especially with the dark walnut base coat.

That's all I got short of sanding back and a complete re-do.

[ThatCluelessGerman]

Ha, no way I'm gonna sand this mofo back. It's giving me gray hair since unpacking

Here is a close up of the dust problem. The thing is, when I apply the poly, it looks all great and smooth, but when it's dry, all the dust appears. It looks like it got already applied with the poly, because it's not sitting on top. This time, I took a lab grade cotton paper towel. It's guaranteed to be lint free, unless you really rub it to pieces of course. But still....

I should probably just let go of the idea of getting a glass like mirror smooth surface. Because it's pretty obvious it's way above my skill level.

[fender3x]

I think that's pretty normal. When it's wet it looks perfectly smooth. When it dries it literally gets smaller as the solvent evaporates, and it shows more flaws. If it were me, I'd apply enough clear coat to be able to sand it pretty flat.

The only other thing I can think of is to try to create a space where particles have a harder time falling on your finish. I used to put the drying piece under the stove hood and let the fan run on high. Mostly this was to get rid of VOCs but it also takes care of a lot of stuff in the air that might have landed on the piece. I have been tempted to build a little hood for my garage now that my wife and kids are home all the time ;-)

You could do something similar with a box and a small fan...

[JimC]

You're nearly there. There was a lot more dust on this headstock before it got its last sand and burnish, and I think it's decent enough. It's just a question of getting a good feel for the sand through problem, and once you get that down you'll be needing to change that rapidly becoming inappropriate screen name...

[McCreed]

A lot of it may not be that noticeable if it's buried deep enough. Especially with the dark walnut base coat.

I just quoted myself there...

I got your projects mixed up! I thought we were talking about the brown hollow body. You've got too many guitars going for me to keep up!

Anyway, my thoughts are the same regarding the fix.
I also agree with Jim C, that once you level & polish, you may be surprised just how much the particles aren't visible without very close inspection. If I judged all my finishes on sighting from 3 inches away, they'd all fail!

As for the rangehood/box fan idea, that concept is flawed unless you're starting in an already perfectly dust-free environment.
The rangehood or fan that's meant to be extracting is more likely just pulling dust in the direction of your project.

[fender3x]

As for the rangehood/box fan idea, that concept is flawed unless you're starting in an already perfectly dust-free environment.
The rangehood or fan that's meant to be extracting is more likely just pulling dust in the direction of your project.

And another crackpot idea bites the dust.


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[ThatCluelessGerman]

Ha, you are right, I have too many guitars going
Number 1+2 are finished, number 3 and 4 get finished ;-)

But here comes the good news:
I *think* I found a routine that is now working for me. I did integrate a lot of your advice!

* First, I clean the surface with a soft cloth.
* Step two: Put on a fresh rubber glove and rub the surface with it. This works great for pulling off all sorts of tiny hairs and dust.
* Step three: I use lint free, lab grade cotton paper towels. Fold all the corners inside, and then fold it in the middle, so it has all soft edges and two usable sides (important, and a great tip from you guys).
* Step three: Dip it in the poly and apply in circular motions, while applying some light pressure. This step seems to pull out even more of the crud from the last layer, so here comes the next important step:
* Flip the folded cotton towel and now use the unused side to pull down the poly from one edge to the next (I do top to bottom) without lifting or stopping. This ensures the crud is trapped on the other side and I use the fresh side to even out the poly.

Of course, it is still impossible to have a completely dust free surface in my environment. I don't have a dedicated work space (currently using the kitchen table) cause we live in a pretty small flat with two hairy pugs. No cellar, no basement, no garden. So I'm trying to make the best of it.

Anyway, thank you very much for all your great advice and maybe my workflow above does help out somebody else who maybe found this thread on google