Which is normally true as a blanket statement for a standard 6-in-line headstock but this is a 3+3, so the D and G strings have the lowest break angle and they will be the ones most likely to need a string tree or equivalent.
And you also need to remember that the tuner positions start further away from the nut than on a normal Tele or Strat, so you need to consider the actual distances involved. Going by relative lengths on the photos and comparing to a Tele neck, the two Es are about as far from the nut as the A tuner normally is, the A and B tuners are roughly just beyond the normal D tuner position and the D and G tuners about halfway in-between the normal G and B tuner positions.
So whilst the headstock looks very long, tuner-wise, it ends up about 4cm more compact than a normal Tele headstock. The nut to top of headstock depth also looks a few mm deeper than normal (it's typical for the tops of the tuners to be level with the top of a well-cut nut and these are certainly lower than that, though post heights can vary), so that will help with break angle, so you may well get away without needing any string trees. See how it plays and then decide. As a bar-type string retainer isn't inherently adjustable, you may find a standard one pulls the strings down too low, as you can have too great a string break angle, given that extra headstock to nut depth. Positioning one so it doesn't interfere with the truss rod access could also move a bar-type a long way back, which itself will look a bit odd.
I agree with McCreed on the E tuner windings. A standard string wind will also give better tuning stability. It doesn't matter if the two E break angles are a bit greater than the other strings. The extra distance to the nut will stop the break angle from being excessive.
Maybe consider adding a decal to fill in the gap visually?