Here we go. GSJ1 - Single pickup SG

[Dacious]

Just got the kit, It's a factory second due to a chip on the bass-side horn and a bit of a mismatch of the halves, but that's fine. I like Junior-style guitars and P90s. You can't have one too fancy - wouldn't be a junior.


Built partscasters and a Tele Custom body before and a Melody Maker refinish.

I'm going to try the Dingo Tone brown finish on it.

So far, neck pocket is sloppy, but that's no biggie. The parts like bridge, Kluson style jade-tulip tuners and so forth seem good. Lightning bar bridge. I may cut a tortoiseshell pickguard but the kit one's not bad.

The P90 is about 5 kohm DC resistance, which I think would make it a bit mild. I have an old Epiphone that's 7.5kohm and I'm going to whack some Alnico 4 bars in it, should work out pretty grunty.

I like the neck and profile, nice bit of rosewood it appears. Frets appear pretty good, but I'll do a light cut and crown.

Cut the headstock to the open book shape while the putty's drying. Put a small ding in the body (d'oh!) so putty on that too.

[JimC]

If you haven't already filled body ding look up steaming them out. Haven't tried it myself, but numerous people have found it surprisingly effective.

[Simon Barden]

Hi and welcome.

I'm also building a GSJ-1. Just currently touching up small mistakes I made (which I seem to make all the time) and doing the headstock logo before its final clear coats can go on.

My neck pocket was just right. The neck/pocket join can alter a bit during transit, so it may improve in a week or two, but they normally start off too tight and then loosen up.

Whilst I'm also replacing it with another one, my kit's P90 measures 6.86k ohms, which whilst still on the light side for a P90, is significantly more than yours. You'd be looking at nearer 9k for a more standard P90.

[Simon Barden]

In fact, my SGJ body is a different shape to yours, with symmetrical horns whilst yours has the more accurate offset horns and more authentic control knob positions. Your bridge also looks different to my kit bridge.

As Jim says, steaming out the dent will normally fix it if its not too deep. Use a damp cotton (not synthetic material or it will probably melt) rag and a hot soldering iron. Couple of layers of the damp rag over the dent, apply the iron for a few seconds until the rag's steaming away, but stop before that patch of rag dries out and gets too hot. If there's still a bit of a dent, then move the rag a bit to get a damp bit again, and repeat as necessary. You'll find any shallow dent remaining will probably level out even more when it dries.

[Dacious]

Yep, this body I suspect is a bitza. But I like it. Filled the chip. a little more fine sanding and she's ready


Also shaped headstock


About to start staining with the Desert Sunburst. First time, going to stick with the Dingotone. I might hit it with nitro topcoat. I have some Behlens left from my Melody Maker refin.

[Simon Barden]

You may have some issues with nitro over Dingotone. I know Tru-Oil over Dingotone works OK, but nitro can be very fussy.

As you're staining, rather than painting a solid colour, I'd have been tempted to cut that horn back slightly rater than fill it, as it will probably look very different with the stain on compared to the wood, whereas you really wouldn't notice if the top horn wasn't quite so large. I'd start staining on the horn and see what you think. Just do that small area. If they match - all well and good. If not, then you can still file/sand/Dremel the horn to make a slightly smaller version that will stain evenly.

[Dacious]

I'm going to fog the bevels with transusclent black like Gibson does with late sunbursts. The putty shouldn't show. It seems it's the topcoat of Dingotone that takes a while to dry so I was going to give that a miss, given its 12-13 deg all week here in Lockdownville.

[Dacious]

So - on to staining. Bit cool here today, noticing the stain is susceptible to absorbing newsprint etc. Drying out in the sun.

First coat on headstock. Second coat was much more even. it slurped up in the areas like the edges where the endgrain is exposed.



Liking the tone. It goes a little less orange as it is drying



I could actually live with the filler, as this is inconspicuous unless you look, but it's going under a darker finish just here.



Old Fender painting trick, except instead of nails driven in, I have three rolled up bits of sandpaper in the bridgepost and jack holes holding body off the paper.

The Outback Sunset has reduced the difference in the shade of the two body halves to negligible. Which is great. The bottom half was a lot paler.

[Dacious]

Back after two days, the finish is nice and flat. Just added one Intensifier coat. I have to say, Dingotone is very easy to work and work with. I touched up a couple of patches of the stain coat and it dried without blemish. It's very tolerant of recoating. The Intensifier has brought the grain up nicely. Will recoat tomorrow.

Gone much more tan.


This is still quite wet



First intensifier coat drying in sun.

[Dacious]

After 2nd and final intensifying coat. Seems to be good grain filler. I like the differing hues it gives the endgrain.


Heel of neck was a mess. Not flat on mating surface, a bit rounded all round. I partially assembled bridge and outer strings to line it up. Pocket was sloppy but worked out best with neck pushed to bass side. I clamped and glued and used slivers of wood to bridge the small gaps. Not pretty but it's a solid join.


First finish coat. I'm liking Dingotone. Least messy finish I've used and smell no worse than furniture or floor polish. Once it's flashed off I can have it in the living room drying in the evening where the missus would never tolerate a spray finish, so it gets benefit of heater. Its shinier than the Gibson faded finishes. Suits the SG/Junior sort of look I think.