Neck worries (non PB Single Cut Style kit)

[ThatCluelessGerman]

Hey Folks,

so, I got this cheap chinese single cut (L*s Paul style) kit from Amazon for around 112€ and I didn't expect much - which is actually exactly what I got, LOL... Not a big deal because it is a trial balloon for some finishing tests, still, I would be very happy if I can get it to a playable state, and here is also my biggest problem:

I have trouble properly seating the neck. It's snug with no wiggle room, which is good, but it somehow looks uneven.

There is a 1-2mm gap between the fretboard and the side of the binding, which is not right. On my other Les Paul style kit, and also all the other good builds I've seen so far, there is no gap, binding on binding so to say.









The thing is, I can't really figure out where the problem is. I measured the routed cavity with the depth stop of my caliper and it has the same depth left and right. Also, the neck has the same height left and right. But it doesn't sit in it evenly.
The heel of the neck is also around 1mm overlapping the edge. it APPEARS the cavity is tilted, but my caliper says it's not.

I'm not quite sure what would be the best way to go:
- Sand the neck cavity on the left side down, so this side sits deeper, the space disappears and the heel sits flush? How can I make sure this will work with the strings other than installing the bridge posts now to see how it looks? If it requires installing the bridge posts, I'd have to do all the finishing first I guess.
- Or just glue it in and sand the side of the heel flush and live with the space under the fretboard?

If I would do the first option, would this change the neck angle? How do I even find out how the neck angle is and must be?
I'm sorry for all this questions, I have tried my luck on google and youtube but I haven't found that much, most probably because I lack the specific terms to search for I guess...

I know it's not a pretty kit.. and I know for most it wouldn't be even worth their time... But it keeps me busy between jobs and is a good way to test my new stains and varnishes without too many regrets (I don't want to mess up my "good" PB kit I'll do after this one).

[Simon Barden]

My first move would be to clamp the neck in the pocket and see what gaps there are and how it sits once it's under pressure. You can often close up some gaps just using brute force. Any overhang at the side I'd sand off level with the body after it's finally glued up.

Neck angle needs to be tested against where the bridge will sit. Hard to do with clamps on, but if you can position them at the sides and leave a path down the middle of the neck, then you can still run a straight edge down it and see what height above the body you get at the bridge.

Just wrap tape around the bridge posts so that you can stand the bridge up in the holes without having to fit the inserts.

When set up, the bridge saddles will end up around 2-3mm higher than the intersection the straight edge makes with the bridge position. So if the bridge is sitting at a reasonable height with the bridge in that position, you should be fine.

[ThatCluelessGerman]

Hey Simon,

as always, thank you very much for your good advice!

I forgot to write that I already had it clamped down, but the gap does remain. Very little changes under pressure.

So, it's not an actual problem with the gap, just a cosmetical issue IF the neck angle is ok?

I will measure it tomorrow with the tape trick and see what I get. Thank you so far :-)

[Bakersdozen]

Id start by wrapping the bridge and stop tail posts in tape, so there is enough tension on them to stay seated in the holes without having to install the bushings and won't affect your finish. You can then check for string travel, correct neck angle and scale length, as it is currently, before deciding to make any changes. You then know how much you have to play with IF required.

Too see what's going on in the pocket, you can rub chalk into each side and the bottom of the pocket. When you install the neck, seat it and take it back out again, you can see where the chalk marks are left on the neck heel to see where contact is it isn't being made. That may give an indication of there is anything able to be adjusted.

Les Paul kits often do have some form of gap(s) in the areas you are pointing out - some more or less than others. They usually require a little filler to help them look flush in one spot or another.

Do your tests first and let us know the outcomes, there may be something there for us provide guidance on.

[Simon Barden]

I'd then suggest using chalk to coat the neck end, then when you put it in the pocket and remove it again, you can see the high points where its touching. sand those down, and repeat the procedure until it fits as best it can. As Bakersdozen says, you'll be very lucky to not have any small gaps. It is a cheap kit, not a high quality LP replica, so you can't really expect too much, or for it to be exactly like the real thing in all aspects of fit and dimensions.

[ThatCluelessGerman]

I'm fully aware it's a cheap kit and I don't expect a perfect fit, but I would like to improve it as best as I can so it's actually playable. Unfortunately, my knowledge here is very limited, so that's why I'm asking :-)

I took some pictures of the neck clamped and the posts inserted with tape. Put in two tuners and set some string in place.











I didn't have any washers to add to the posts so the actual height would probably be +1mm with the studs in place. It's hard to see with the clamp in place but the strings are not clashing against the neck.

I worry mainly about the big gap on the side of the fretboard. If it's just cosmetical, I can try to fill it with dark wood filler. But if it indicates a problem, I'd rather fix it =)

I don't mind the gaps at the neck heel. These are filled easily and with a few more coats of stain and varnish, they will hopefully blend in easily.

I will try the chalk method to see if the fit is good. But I will ask here again before doing any sanding on the neck or cavity if you don't mind =)

[PJSprog]

Looking at the pictures from your first post, there appears to be alternating gaps and contact along the bottom of the joint. Then, of course, there is that screaming gap at the treble side. Clearly, that neck was never properly fit to that body ... which is probably at least one reason the kit was so inexpensive. You're probably going to need to do some sanding to get things to sit right, either in the pocket or on the heal of the neck, or maybe both.

Also, when measuring the pocket depth and the neck, you might also check to make sure everything is square. Check the dimensions from the top to the bottom, and from the bottom of the pocket to the bottom. Then, if you have a builder's square or something you know is exactly 90°, make sure the pocket was cut square into the body. Do the same with a square on the heal of the neck.

[JimC]

I find a very useful thing to have is a small stainless steel square - this sort of thing

https://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/e...eel_square.htm
You will of course have local sources.Its an enormous help finding out which bit isn't quite square, and its also a handy small straight edge.

Rather than sanding, for this sort of thing I favour scraping with a Stanley knife blade held at 90degrees to the surface. My sanded surfaces have a distressing tendency to acquire a dome shape (more skill would presumably prevent this) and I find it much easier to keep the surface truly flat scraping - and also easier to square up the not quite square.

[PJSprog]

Rather than sanding, for this sort of thing I favour scraping with a Stanley knife blade held at 90degrees to the surface. My sanded surfaces have a distressing tendency to acquire a dome shape (more skill would presumably prevent this) and I find it much easier to keep the surface truly flat scraping - and also easier to square up the not quite square.

That's a great point, Jim. Scraping is how violin makers remove small amounts of material, rather than sanding.

[Simon Barden]

I've just bought a set of scrapers, but have yet to use them in anger.