If it was me I would soften the point by not cutting right to the end of the neck pocket, but only about 2/3 of the way. But if it was me, I so rarely play above the 15th fret or so that I have never needed aggressive cutouts at all.
If it was me I would soften the point by not cutting right to the end of the neck pocket, but only about 2/3 of the way. But if it was me, I so rarely play above the 15th fret or so that I have never needed aggressive cutouts at all.
Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...
No second thoughts. For full 24 fret access, you could even take more off. You’re building the guitar I almost ordered about a year ago. I’ve been wrestling with how to cut the body for access as well.
It looks like the Warmoth Nomad body cut the horn for upper fret access and then cut an equal amount from the bottom to make it look balanced. I was going to do something like that.
Another idea was the 24 fret explorer type Dean Dave Mustaine Vic Rattlehead Guitar. That one looks like it’s got 24 fret access and is shaped well.
Don’t have any second thoughts. Most guitars nowadays don’t have access to all 24 frets and for some advanced shredding, that doesn’t get it!!!
Check out Virtuoso guitarist, Rusty Cooley’s discussions About guitar construction on YouTube sometime. He is right, guitars need to evolve. Keep at it!
For a little inspiration and validation that what you’re doing is right - check this video out at the 1:20 mark:
https://youtu.be/jXbsgMuwFMw
Also, you could cut out even more like Schecter did. They also cut an equal amount from the bottom for aesthetics.
https://guitar-compare.com/wp-conten...rets_Guide.png
Last edited by MusicStudent1; 20-07-2020 at 02:48 AM. Reason: Correction
Making the horn a little shorter and maybe cutting some off the other side too might look less weird. Will see if I can do anything to make that look passable.
Hmm.
Last edited by Chaosblade; 20-07-2020 at 08:57 AM.
1. GS-2Q
2. EXM-1 custom
3. GMS-7F
Looks good to me.
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Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
Reminds me of those 24 fret Explorers they released for about 6 weeks....Originally Posted by Chaosblade
The cut I was thinking.
Quick and dirty...
Instant second thoughts.
I’m wondering if there is a way you can alter the bass side as well that makes it look less out of place. Maybe get the angle of the bass side bout to be sharper like the new cut? I’m not sure though. I can’t quite visualise it.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
That's kind of what the one in post 14 is. It's a lot of wood to cut off, and I'm not sure if it would be functional with the neck pocket just sticking out like that. It does look better, but that doesn't matter if it's not a functional neck pocket.
1. GS-2Q
2. EXM-1 custom
3. GMS-7F
It's a bolt-on, so it would be no different in pocket detail to a Strat or a Tele.
Cool, if it will work I will have to find a way to mark it. I have no experience with a router, but it might be easier to fix the neck pocket angle before removing the sides, so that probably needs done first.
Slathered the corner of the fretboard with ebony timbermate and am letting that dry up. I'll sand it down then go over it again but thinned down, and also use that to fill the remaining crack. Or slather it on again if I didn't get good enough coverage the first time, but I put in a pretty big chunk.
1. GS-2Q
2. EXM-1 custom
3. GMS-7F
Not perfect, but better.
1. GS-2Q
2. EXM-1 custom
3. GMS-7F
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