Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22

Thread: Finishing pedal enclosures

  1. #1
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,181

    Finishing pedal enclosures

    All my recent builds have used acrylic lacquer spray cans and waterslide decals. While this works, I want to try something different. My favourite enclosure so far is the polished metal phase 45, so I am thinking of trying an etched enclosure. Not sure yet which type of chemical process to use.
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  2. #2
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,181
    Also this for a slower caustic soda etch:
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  3. #3

  4. #4
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,181
    Sure. Although some are a little daring

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  5. #5
    Ah, cool! Ferric is good, but be prepared for everything you own to turn yellow lol.

    We did a bit of aluminium etching using copper sulphate, which is cheap and easy but the etching process is pretty hectic - lots of spitting and fizzing
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  6. #6
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,181
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnH View Post
    Ah, cool! Ferric is good, but be prepared for everything you own to turn yellow lol.

    We did a bit of aluminium etching using copper sulphate, which is cheap and easy but the etching process is pretty hectic - lots of spitting and fizzing
    I am leaning towards the caustic soda method at the moment, slower but less discolouration. I have some old aluminium plate to experiment with.

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  7. #7
    Member ThatCluelessGerman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Hamburg, Germany
    Posts
    333
    I used Iron III Sulphate to etch many parts for my second guitar build. It worked very well, although it can be a bit tricky if you have thick and thin elements in the same design. The bigger elements get etched much faster and also raise the temperature which results in even faster etching.
    Also better etch when temperatures are low, like in the morning or on rainy days. I prefer longer etching times (10-15 minutes) so I have more control. If the solution is too warm, 30 seconds can make or break a design. Get a sheet of scrap aluminium to practice first.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20200626_155605.jpg 
Views:	197 
Size:	403.6 KB 
ID:	36357

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20200626_160924.jpg 
Views:	203 
Size:	442.8 KB 
ID:	36360

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20200628_102941.jpg 
Views:	230 
Size:	238.1 KB 
ID:	36359
    I don't know what I'm doing but I hope I will end up with a guitar

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by jugglindan View Post
    I am leaning towards the caustic soda method at the moment, slower but less discolouration. I have some old aluminium plate to experiment with.

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
    Good call. Less mess, and slow is usually better when the etching itself is the artwork as you have more control.
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  9. #9
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,181
    Great advice, thanks. Middle of winter here, so cool days are not a problem

    Your guitar is amazing. I will be happy with something much less artistic.

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  10. #10
    Member ThatCluelessGerman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Hamburg, Germany
    Posts
    333
    Thanks, I got it as a factory second as it has a huge crack in the veneer. Still turned out pretty decent and it actually sounds pretty good. I wanted to take some better photos but was too lazy so far...

    How do you transfer the design to the enclosure? I am using toner transfer with an old (but professional) laminator that can go up to 160°C, that works very well for flat sheets of metal.

    I guess a hot iron could work for an enclosure, or maybe an old heat press (for transferring t-shirt designs)?

    Otherwise, you could of course also stencil the resist on with spray paint, or maybe try a vinyl cut?
    I don't know what I'm doing but I hope I will end up with a guitar

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •