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Thread: Harmony H62 fiend

  1. #1
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    Harmony H62 fiend

    Hi fellow wannabe luthiers,
    no pics from me yet, but I'm awaiting a custom kit based on the GR1, which just happens to have a very similar body size/shape to a guitar I've been gassing for, but can't find here in Australia at any price. They pop up for sale every so often in the USA, but no way I can afford them either....
    Here's a link to pics, and info on this model:
    https://shop.guitarpoint.de/en/Harmo...ny-H62-Natural
    I've ordered the GR1, with a paddle headstock, block inlays, flame maple top and back, tortoiseshell binding front and back, and only bridge post holes drilled in the front. I'll rout and drill for the pickups, and wiring harness.

    I can't wait for this project to arrive - no sign of an original H62 in my 2+ years of searching. I have the original Gibson P13 pickups ready to install, and I'm thinking of adding a Bigsby, cos, well you know - things go better with trem!

  2. #2
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome.

    I did up an H59 a few years ago.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Found a beaten up one in the US so it was cheap and imported it into the UK. A few bits missing which I replaced or made.

    Neck wasn't a straight as I'd hoped for, and with a non-adjustable truss rod there wasn't much I could do apart from massage the fret heights a bit. It played OK, just not as nicely as I'd have preferred. Sometimes there are benefits to newer instruments!

    All the best with your build, and don't forget to start a build diary.

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    That guitar needs a few more knobs......
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  4. #4
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    Hey, that came up pretty well! I gotta say though the slimline necks on those thinner body Harmony models I'm not overly keen on. I have an H75 (3 Goldfoils also, but double cutaway), and I'm ok with it, but an earlier H74 Roy Smeck model I had, I just didn't gel with the neck. Shame, as it was otherwise a beauty!
    I also have a couple of Archtops with single P13s, which are great for my passion for jump blues, but I want the two P13 option also. I also bought a Silvertone 1385 (same as Espanada, minus the harmometal binding), and I'm scared to play it, as it's in such wonderful condition, and man they have a beast of a neck! Once I have the "H62" knockoff sorted, I think I may sell of the 1385, as (I can't believe I'm saying this, but), I think I prefer buxom blondes after all....

  5. #5
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    Update:
    I have news that FINALLY, my custom kit is arriving, maybe tomorrow. Apparently the first one was made at the factory, then simply vanished into thin air... Maybe it was abducted by aliens or some such....
    Anyway, the challenge is to knock up something that looks kind of like this, (see attached pic), out of the GR-1SF kit.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	38355 Now that I've looked a lot closer, (the body shape is pretty right, I asked for no pickup routs, and no holes, other than for bridge posts), but now that I see it without all that, I see the f holes are positioned much further down the body on the kit, so that's going to bug me, but anyway.... The original actually has an ebony floating bridge, but I like the idea of good intonation, so unless the tone, or my playing is compromised by the schaller adjustable roller bridge, I'll use that. The Gibson P13 pickups I'm using have really wide pole-piece spacing (56.5mm at the bridge), so I chose the adjustable schaller bridge.
    Anyway, looking forward to unboxing, and starting to plan my attack.
    I actually have a lot of other stuff happening right now, but intend to make steady progress with this, as I'm able.

  6. #6
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Looking forward to watching this come together.

  7. #7
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    So, the magic box still hasn't arrived...
    The parcel that did arrive the other day, was some kids' xmas presents - damn them!! :/
    I wonder if anyone can chime in about the "hollow" status of these kits? Are they (as described), fully hollow? Is there anything inside where the "Bigsby" is supposed to screw onto the body, like a front to back block, or bracing?
    I'm thinking I'll probably use a Click image for larger version. 

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    B6 Bigsby instead, since the archtop would give a decent amount of break angle anyway, and I don't have to screw into the top. Or, I'd love to use a Click image for larger version. 

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    Hofner "Harp" tailpiece, like the original Harmony H62 has, or a Click image for larger version. 

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    Kluson #6, which may have been the Harmony backup plan, presumably, when the Hofner tailpiece went up in price.

  8. #8
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Best to start the build diary and ask questions there, even though its not arrived yet. I only normally say hi here and then ignore further posts, and I know others do as well.

    Yes the kits are fully hollow, with a maybe 30mm thick block (very soft wood) glued directly under the bridge area and then a further thin wooden block wedged in (not glued) between the underside of that and the back for a bit more support.

    The 'Bigsby' top screws are there more for a bit of sideways stabilisation than anything else and just screw into the ply. As you note, many Bigsbys don't have top fixing screws and are held in place by the tail block screws (there is a decent thickness tail block) and string tension. The kits do have a habit of coming with screws for the top that are far too long for the job and with a solid shaft section below the head at the point where you need the thread to be (don't ask me why!).

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Best to start the build diary and ask questions there, even though its not arrived yet. I only normally say hi here and then ignore further posts, and I know others do as well.

    Yes the kits are fully hollow, with a maybe 30mm thick block (very soft wood) glued directly under the bridge area and then a further thin wooden block wedged in (not glued) between the underside of that and the back for a bit more support.

    The 'Bigsby' top screws are there more for a bit of sideways stabilisation than anything else and just screw into the ply. As you note, many Bigsbys don't have top fixing screws and are held in place by the tail block screws (there is a decent thickness tail block) and string tension. The kits do have a habit of coming with screws for the top that are far too long for the job and with a solid shaft section below the head at the point where you need the thread to be (don't ask me why!).
    OK, thanks for the info Simon. Some questions have no answers - like the screw supplied to secure the "bigsby"....

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