Scratch build 335 in a garden shed

[Ricky]

Over the last 2 weeks, while recovering from Covid 19 I have been planning and starting a scratch build 335.
My other thread is the build of the ES-1GT and I have always loved the shape. The kit, however, falls a bit short on what I really want. Not in any way a negative comment on the kit - it really is first class and the fit and finish is better than I could reasonably expect.

The shortfall is with regards to the detail construction and neck.

As I understand it, the central solid timber of the body of the original was mahogany, the top and bottom were attached to the sides with mahogany kerfing and the neck was available as special order in laminated form (mahog, walnut, maple, walnut, mahog).

This will be the basis of my build.
The top is maple veneer with a mixture of quilting and spalting.

I should start of by saying I have never built a guitar from scratch before so this should be interesting.

So, progress so far....
2 body blanks made from 18mm mdf drilled for dowels for securing the laminated sides
various templates of the archback profile made
Neck template made
All required timbers bought mostly finished to thickness.

Sides laminated from 0.6mm maple veneer (6 layers)
Copious amounts of mahogany kerfing made
Top and bottom cut from marine grade 3.6mm mahogany faced plywood.
Maple veneer glued to the top. (first attempt was a failure but luckily I had 4 sheets so I can use the failed one as a practice top for fitting switches, knobs f holes etc. and for stains and sanding sealer).

Centre timbers cut from mahogany and compound curved with a hand plane and sanding block
End block for the timbers made (this is used at the rear of the body to take the neckstrap screw rather than screwing into endgrain).

Next job is to glue the 2 timbers together and start fitting the sides. The sides are critical as where they fade into the neck it needs to be an almost invisible join.

Question for you gurus out there .
Should I cut the 'F' holes before or after I glue the top and bottom on? I am asking this as I wonder what will happen tension wise as the curvature involves a fair bit of clamping pressure and I do not want edges of the 'F' holes to pop up as the tension is released.

Attaching a few pics...

[JimC]

I'm not clear on how you've shaped the top and bottom. I don't think I could take on that three dimensional shape.

[Ricky]

I took the profile from my ES-1GT kit using a form gauge (one of those tools with lots of sliding plastic sticks that follow a profile).
Used it length ways and then multiple cross ways. Modified the actual thickness by checking specs for the Gibson online.
A lot of careful hand planing to get the end to end profile and then hand sanded the profile constantly checking the templates.
About a day and a half but it is pretty close now.

I have not done anything this critical before but it was not too difficult - just take your time.
The actual top and bottom surfaces are plywood sheet so will bend to their own profile - the trick is to not introduce too much stress into the plywood or it will pop the glue joints.

As you can see in one of the pics, I have plenty of clamps available and I think about 20 will be used to clamp it all together!
Early days though....

Ricky

[JimC]

I shall watch. This one greatly interests me:-)

[FrankenWashie]

I took the profile from my ES-1GT kit using a form gauge (one of those tools with lots of sliding plastic sticks that follow a profile).
Used it length ways and then multiple cross ways. Modified the actual thickness by checking specs for the Gibson online.
A lot of careful hand planing to get the end to end profile and then hand sanded the profile constantly checking the templates.
About a day and a half but it is pretty close now.

I have not done anything this critical before but it was not too difficult - just take your time.
The actual top and bottom surfaces are plywood sheet so will bend to their own profile - the trick is to not introduce too much stress into the plywood or it will pop the glue joints.

As you can see in one of the pics, I have plenty of clamps available and I think about 20 will be used to clamp it all together!
Early days though....

Ricky

I devoured this YT series a year or so back, it provides a lot of great detail, though TBF, this bloke has a ripping workshop!

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...itEaGnWq5BTfWa

[Ricky]

I devoured this YT series a year or so back, it provides a lot of great detail, though TBF, this bloke has a ripping workshop!

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...itEaGnWq5BTfWa

Yup! I quite agree FrankenWashie
Exactly the series I watched over the last couple of weeks.
I watched the first couple of episodes and thought 'here we go. Another rich bloke showing off all his expensive gear that most people can only dream of'.
Then it slowly dawned on me that in fact he is a very genuine, humble but talented woodworker that is as proud to share his mistakes and his triumphs. Added to which most of the series is manual woodwork.
50 episodes of fun and knowledge.

His techniques will become mine! (I hope)

Ricky

[FrankenWashie]

Yup! I quite agree FrankenWashie
Exactly the series I watched over the last couple of weeks.
I watched the first couple of episodes and thought 'here we go. Another rich bloke showing off all his expensive gear that most people can only dream of'.
Then it slowly dawned on me that in fact he is a very genuine, humble but talented woodworker that is as proud to share his mistakes and his triumphs. Added to which most of the series is manual woodwork.
50 episodes of fun and knowledge.

His techniques will become mine! (I hope)

Ricky

Igor and I both salute you Sir, (apologies, Igor’s salute is a little lopsided). You are operating in the true questing sprit of the FrankenLab, and furthering the proud English tradition of the Gentleman Tinkering in a Shed!
Excelsior!

[Ricky]

Time for a quick update.
I have glued the 2 center blocks together and glued the rear block in place. the sides have been glued to the center block and the kerfing fitted and sanded to profile.
I had cut the bottom plywood skin but on doing a test clamp of the top and bottom I found a mistake. The bottom was a fraction too small. It would probably have been OK as I will need to rout it anyway for the binding but I decided to cut a new one.
I have now done the test clamp and it all meets where it should.
It needed a lot more sanding to get a good mating surface with the kerfing though.

No photos today but I will take a few tomorrow as I glue the bottom on,
Just the bottom gets glued as this then gives me the chance of cleaning up any glue mess that could be visible through the F holes.

[Woltz]

This might also be useful - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi3-D7N31eo

[Ricky]

Thanks for the link, Woltz.
12 minutes to build a 335! Think it has taken me a bit longer.
Very useful though. Some of their techniques I have also used and others I will use as the build progresses.
I want that pneumatic press for the sides and tops!

Todays progress.
I have glued the bottom on!
Not sure that gluing one side at a time was a good idea though.
When I take the clamps off, the back may try to revert to its original shape ..... FLAT!
We will see.

Glue line looks good but there will be a fair amount of cleanup required although the joint line itself gets routed for the binding.

Here are the photos.