EXM custom

[Chaosblade]

I think I decided on an another alternative. Instead of routing the cavity edge deeper, I'll just route the edge of a 1/8" thick cover to fit the lip of the cavity.


I should be asleep but instead I'm thinking about nonsense, like wiring mods. For active pickups. Ridiculous.

The Internet says an 18v mod reduces the "activeness" of actives, makes them less compressed and sound more like passives. With other wiring mods being generally out of the question, that's a kind of neat concept.

So there's three solutions. The simple SPDT solution of throwing one battery out of the circuit, which will result in a main battery that's always used and a secondary battery that's only used in series. Or the slightly more complicated DPDT solution that uses a series/parallel power switch. The batteries will drain at the same rate, with parallel doubling battery life and series doubling power.

And the last solution, where I look at this after I wake up in 8 hours and realize how silly all this is and drop it.

Silly indeed. That's not worth it.

[JimC]

Needs to be 1/16" or 1.5mm which I had trouble finding,

Try model aeroplane suppliers for very thin plywood.

[Chaosblade]

Did a mock wiring setup and everything is good except the switch. I'm confused by how this is pre-wired because it doesn't match the wiring diagram. It's either wrong or something funky and non-traditional.



Yellow is supposed to be output, white is supposed to be bridge, and red is supposed to be neck. But I think the bridge and neck colors are flipped? Assuming this thing will even work at all without resoldering it? Considering there's a red connected to a yellow the colors might just mean nothing.

Here's the diagram. It says Tele, but the only difference between it and the humbucker diagram is the switch type.





Edit: Maybe it is right and it's just weird. The picture on the website has it wired the same way.

Edit edit: Also found a diagram that matches it and would indicate the colors are correct. So it's probably fine.

[WeirdBits]

There are two basic ways to wire a CRL style 3-way blade switch, as shown in the two diagrams above.

The first is like your switch with the output connected to the common lug on each side of the switch and the pickups each linking across two lugs so they’re both connected in position 2 (shown in 2nd diagram).

The alternative way is to have one pickup connected to each common lug and then have the output wire link across two lugs on each side, again so you have both pickups on in position 2 (1st diagram).

So, you’re good to go. Generally ignore colours as they can change, just go with what connects where. In your case yellow is indeed your output, white is for the bridge and red is neck with the switch in its current orientation.

[Chaosblade]

Painting is definitely, uh, something. Finally got the black and clear on. Honestly I think I liked it better with just the primer. Feel like that showed less of my bad grain filling work and the matte look was better. Probably should have tried just spraying clear over that.

Guess I will let this sit for a while before sanding. Probably 600->800->1200(wet)->2000(wet) and see what I need to do from there.