Starting this as a place to put info relating to getting started with building pedals. Initially focused on stripboard builds, but much applies to PCB builds as well.
EDIT: I have decided to edit this first post to contain all the tips. Otherwise they get lost in the conversation. Not deleting the other posts, so there is a little bit of duplication.
Where to get layouts:
Guitar FX Layouts is a great place to start, although there are lots of other resources as well.
Build Guides:
Guitar FX Layouts have a pretty good build guide, as well as a guide to the offboard wiring (pots, jacks, footswitch etc).
Parts:
For parts, there are two schools of thought. I buy stuff in bulk which gets the individual component cost right down and saves on postage, but it only makes sense if you plan to build a lot of stuff. That 3000 resistor pack doesn't save money if I only use 10 of them. It also requires storage and a system to keep components and values organised.
The other approach is to order just what you need for a specific build. Put it all in a single order to save postage. Places like Pedal Parts Australia, DIY Guitar Pedals, or Tayda generally stock everything needed for a complete pedal.
PPA and DIYGP don't sell stripboard though. Jaycar do, and it's on eBay. Make sure you get the boards with parallel copper tracks, not the perfboard that has tinned holes but no tracks. This is the right board:
Parts List:
Starting with the layout diagram, I make a spreadsheet of all the parts, marking what I have in stock or not. This process helps me get familiar with the layout, and identifies what I need to order. There seems to be a fundamental law of nature that no matter how many pots I have in stock, I will still be missing one value.
Slow and Steady Definitely Wins This Race:
Unlike PCB builds, stripboard doesn't come with a nice printed layout on the board indicating exactly where each component goes. I always check the placement of cuts multiple times, marking the cut location with a sharpie once I am confident the placing is correct. If the cuts are wrong, the build will fail.
After cutting the board, I mark the top-left corner with a sharpie for reference. It's easy to get the orientation confused otherwise.
Once the cuts are made, I test continuity across the cuts with a multimeter. Sometimes, a tiny trace of copper remains which again would lead to problems. Much easier to check the cuts before adding components. Slow and steady again.
Next I add links to the board. I measure location by counting from different directions as a cross-check. A link might start 5 across and 6 down from the top-left. Mark that hole with a sharpie. Then check it a second time, perhaps from a different direction. Going slow and triple checking the link placements helps the rest of the build go smoothly. Once you get some trusted landmarks on the board, placing the rest of the components gets much easier. Instead of counting 17 across and 9 down from the top-left, you can do things like "5 across and 1 down from the top of that link".
Final slow and steady tip: solder just one component at a time. Before soldering, double check location. After soldering, inspect the solder joins (I use an illuminated desktop magnifier for this) before clipping the leads. You want a nice shiny joint that flows nicely onto the board. This lets me catch unintended solder bridges (across adjacent tracks) early. The other common problem is too much solder causing the solder to flow along the track and cover the next hole on the same track. Again, easier to catch and fix early (although if no component needs to use the blocked hole I tend to leave these alone).
Use Sockets:
I always use sockets for ICs and transistors. The sockets are cheap and they remove the risk of heat damage to sensitive components. I have had builds that don't work correctly, and the problem turned out to be a faulty op amp. With sockets, this was a simple fix. Without sockets it would have been much more painful. For transistors, you can buy single inline (SIL) sockets that can be snapped with pliers to exactly the right number of pins. They are also handy for socketing key components such as clipping diodes if you want to experiment later.
Build Sequence:
I tend to add components from smallest to largest, with one exception being sockets for the ICs and transistors. I add those early since it can be fiddly to get them in place if there are larger components very close by. So my general build sequence is:
- links
- sockets (IC and transistors)
- resistors
- diodes
- capacitors, leaving the larger polarised electrolytics to last
- add ICs and transistors to the sockets
- offboard wiring using the drilled enclosure as a guide to wire lengths. Wire up everything except the DC power jack since it requires soldering into the enclosure.
Final Test:
Once everything but the DC jack is wired up it's time for a sound check. I use alligator leads to clip the power leads to a 9v battery for this test. If there is a problem, you don't need to desolder the power jack to remove the circuit from the enclosure for debugging.
Keep your stripboard offcuts:
They are handy for making adapters for PCB-mounted pots, allowing them to be used off the main board:
Attachment 35941
Also handy for making little boards for the power indicator LED and current limiting resistor if you don't like wiring it point to point:
Attachment 35942
Next:
- essential and optional tools
- drilling templates
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Originally Posted by dozymuppet
