Bone nut problem

[jugglindan]

It depends as to how specialist a luthier supplier you go to. Some will do a wide variety of nut sizes. Otherwise a get a bone blank and file it to fit.

Or look at Graphtech nuts as they come in a variety of widths, heights and depths.

Thanks Simon. Graphtec or a blank might be the way to go. I have a 12" radius sanding block and a set of needle files. Still, it's a little disappointing to buy a bone nut upgrade and not be able to use it. The variations between all the kits seem to cause a bit of chaos with the nut upgrades.

[Bakersdozen]

Thanks Simon. Graphtec or a blank might be the way to go. I have a 12" radius sanding block and a set of needle files. Still, it's a little disappointing to buy a bone nut upgrade and not be able to use it. The variations between all the kits seem to cause a bit of chaos with the nut upgrades.

It does seem a shame, but you may be able to use it on a future build if you don't end up applying it to this one. Graphtec nuts are great, they take a little patience with sanding to fit, but once they do they perform stellar. I've got them on all my guitars and never had an issue.

[Simon Barden]

Note that there is an 'h' on the end of Graphtech, though you'd think they'd be hip and drop it.

https://graphtech.com/

[jugglindan]

Anyone who can only think of one way to spell a word obviously lacks imagination.

Although I don't think Mark Twain used emoji.

[J.R.303]

The Vanson one turned up today and it is pretty much a direct replacement.
But, with the plastic nut knocked off it is easier to see down the neck and it has revealed a slight twist and a warped headstock which is a bit depressing seeing as I am stained up and four coats of tru oil in.
What should I do?
I guess the headstock is just going to be a quirk and won't affect playability.

[Simon Barden]

It's easy to see twists which aren't really there. You then convince yourself it is and you can't un-see one.

I've never really worked out an easy way to measure for a twist easily, especially as the fretboard radius makes it difficult to position anything properly flat across the neck at each end unless you have a couple of flat sticks with a 12" radius curve sanded/filed out in the middle. Even then you'd need to be very careful as any slight deviation from central would indicate a twist that's not there.

Can you get a photo down the neck?

Unless you want to sand the headstock down to level it, then I'd leave it alone. You'd probably want to add a layer or two of veneer to it if there's much sanding at an angle involved, so it doesn't become too thin.

[J.R.303]

Yeah, kind of what I thought. I will try and get round to doing the photo thing, it's just a bit daunting to one who is not a spring chicken!

Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk

[fender3x]

It's easy to see twists which aren't really there. You then convince yourself it is and you can't un-see one.

1+

I had got an inexpensive, but beautiful neck on eBay only to "discover" that it had a twist...but I wasn't sure. I decided to try to set it up, and if that did not work I'd replace it (F type neck). It set up well and with no problems. It turned out that what I thought was a twist at first was really that the fingerboard was a little thicker on one side than the other. The radius was fine and the neck was otherwise straight.