DMS-1 The King's 4th Pitbull build

[king casey]

OK. thanks.
I think a couple of applications of ebony Timbermate.

Then a couple of Sanding Sealer.

Then red stain.

cheers, Mark.

[Simon Barden]

The Feast Watson sealer does say stain afterwards using their Prooftint stain - which is spirit based. Look like the sealer is oil-based, so may not take water-based stains well or evenly.

I'd test on a scrap piece of wood first, just to make sure.

[king casey]

Thanks Simon. Yes I got my microscope out and read the label hehe.
So first thing is to lay on a watery application of ebony Timbermate.
A positive to take away is that it highlights any undesirable scratches and defects for sanding out.





cheers, Mark.

[OliSam]

Yay! Youre on the road.
Good stuff!

My fretboard is pretty good and i put fretboard wax on it tonight.
How is your one looking?


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[king casey]

Let's pull some frets...


Minimal damage...but remember it's mostly sanded out.



Keep them in order whilst we go..


cheers, Mark.

edit: HI Ollie! not lookin' too bad

[king casey]

So to get some perspective regards to scale length...
Seems to be correct with the bridge over the pre-drilled holes.
Strange


cheers, Mark.

[OliSam]

So to get some perspective regards to scale length...
Seems to be correct with the bridge over the pre-drilled holes.
Strange


cheers, Mark.

That was the same for me,Mark.
However once intonated the lowE&A were screwed tightly back.
I reckon 2mm back would be the right thing to do.


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[McCreed]

Hi Mark.
I just caught up on this thread and see I got a mention!

I'd say your on the right track with your process but, FWIW, I didn't use sanding sealer on mine.
I did ebony timbermate, followed by water based dye, followed by wipe-on poly.
Simon makes a good point about the oil based sanding sealer with water based stain/dye. Not sure if there'd be compatibility issues or not. Worth testing as per SB.

edit:
Shame about the faux rosewood board. I would have talked to Adam and swapped it myself, but you're truly past the point of no return now!

[king casey]

That was the same for me,Mark.
However once intonated the lowE&A were screwed tightly back.
I reckon 2mm back would be the right thing to do.

That's interesting then Oli.

So now that you have 'correct' strings on...what is the actual scale distance of your high 'E'?

cheers, Mark.

[king casey]

I'd say your on the right track with your process but, FWIW, I didn't use sanding sealer on mine.
I did ebony timbermate, followed by water based dye, followed by wipe-on poly.

Hi McCreed, I was awaiting your valued input. That finish you achieved is definitely the 'red-rag-to-a-bull' target.
I haven't applied the Sanding sealer as yet.
One application of ebony Timbermate has hightlighted all the flaws that I need to sand out.
I did use red india ink on a previous guitar and it went well with the Tru-Oil, which I just happen to have laying around.
Either of those is still up in the air at the moment.

Yes, I could have kicked up a fuss about the fretboard.
Mustangs don't usually come with maple necks.
Despite being 'engineered' rosewood, it seems to be intact.
Once I've radiused it, I'll fine sand and see if a few lacquer top coats sort it out.

cheers, Mark.