Mock build - hard body Strat 12 string bridge

[conesworth]

Hey just looking for a little advice regarding the mock build. I'm wondering how to secure the bridge without drilling or if I need to. The little issue I'm having in my head is because its a 12 string, I'll need to use the 2 different types of entry (ferrule and behind the bridge) to check the string spacing against the edge and how straight everything is. Is the string through the ferrule enough to hold the bridge in place? If so I assume the answer is to just put both octave strings on both sides so its held down by the ferruled strings, but I just want to make sure.

Much thanks and love,
Conesworth
Sunshine Coast

[colin2121]

The short answer is you need to drill and screw the bridge onto the body. I am currently doing a 12 string tele. You can check my build diary for how I placed the bridge. You can see how I aligned the bridge using string on the outermost tuners.
The tension pulling on 12 strings will actually pull the bridge up the body.

[Simon Barden]

The short answer is you need to drill and screw the bridge onto the body.

Which you don't want to do before you locate the bridge!

The reality is that you only need to use thin string or even cotton on the two outer string locations to check the bridge position, not real guitar strings that need to be at full tension. You can measure where the bridge roughly needs to go using the scale length, so fit the two outer E-string string tuners, and run some string from the rear bridge mounting holes over the two outer E string saddle notches, up to those tuners. wind the string until you have equal lengths of string of the right length and pull the bridge by hand to tension the strings.

You can then move the bridge from side to side, making sure the front edge is perpendicular to the neck, until the strings are at equal distance from either side. Mark the position of the bridge edges on the body, and you've got your lateral bridge position sorted. Then just measure for scale length from the top/high E nut slot to the top/high E saddle with the saddle round most of the way forwards, and you've then got that distance sorted as well. Always measure all the way from the nut and not from the 12th fret to reduce inaccuracies.

Mark the mounting and rear string hole positions and you're done.

[jugglindan]

Great description Simon.

I just wanted to say that I have been building a notebook (well OneNote actually) full of tips and techniques that I want to remember. Most of them are under headings like "Simon's Guide to ...", so thank you once again.

Right, I have finished hijacking someone else's thread now