Paulownia Precision

[fender3x]

This may not be a quick turnaround build, since I have one ahead of it in the cue. Still, I would say the build has now officially begun.

I acquired a PB neck cut to a Jazz Bass profile that arrived in January. I have done a little work on the frets, and have had a bit of a fraught adventure shaping the headsock.

I wanted a light, very simple bass. So when I saw what looked like a paulownia p-bass body on eBay for $33 it was irresistible. The body is super light. Maybe too light. It is also a bit less than perfect, with some dents, toolmarks and incomplete routes, but for $33 you don't expect it to be ready to put finish on.

This morning I did a dry fit with the only two parts I currently have...so we are off to the races ;-)

[Simon Barden]

Solid colour as it's got the dents and marks? Or going to try steaming those out and staining?

[JimC]

If its paulownia aren't dents inevitable, in which case might it be as well to leave the dents in and avoid that dreadful moment of the first dent?

[fender3x]

If its paulownia aren't dents inevitable, in which case might it be as well to leave the dents in and avoid that dreadful moment of the first dent?

This was the 2nd post when I started this thread, and as I put the hardware on, I increasingly see the wisdom of it. Paulownia is plenty stable enough to make a guitar body. Neck and bridge seem to attach fine and the softness of the wood does not seem to be an issue. It takes finish reasonably well, at least after a lot of pore filling...

...but it is really soft. I have managed to scratch and dent in a number of places even before getting it completely together. I tried to fix it in a couple of places, but that just made it worse. Won't try again. Surrendering to the "inevitability" as Jim said.

My plan, at the moment, is to finish the build, and see how it is as a player. It's super light, and it *seems* like the combination of Hipshot Ultralite tuners and a high-mass bridge may just sufficiently balance it...but I won't know that until I complete the build.

My minimum goal was to build a P-bass, with a Jazz neck that was as light as possible without being too far out of balance on my shoulder. It may achieve that. We'll see. But I think it is just going to collect dents and scratches like nobody's business. That may not keep it from being a good player, but I don't think it's going to win any awards for looks. At least I won't worry about the first scratch or dents...it's already got those.

I think it's great as the core of the ES's bodies in kits, and maybe that's the best way to use it--as a light core with something harder laminated to its exterior.

[fender3x]

Any bass I own will eventually have dents. But paulownia is certainly soft. I may try to steam and sand out the dents to get a stain on. Solid color is always an option. if it doesn't work.

[Simon Barden]

A good finish should protect the wood once it's hardened. And you could always liberally apply thin CA all over first if doing a solid colour finish. Or a proper wood hardener product.

[fender3x]

The body has nice figuring, so I am going to try to stain it. So I probably won't bath it in CA. I have enough clear coat from my last bass to using it on this bass. If it doesn't harden it enough, it'll have dents like my basswood bass does. Got some Aqua Coat to pore fill, and have started to do some experiments on some scraps of Paulownia. We'll see ;-)

I have ordered a bridge and a string retainer. Both are making their way very slowly to Miami. I have a blank to start make a nut, so I may get that started.

Meanwhile, I have been reading about some difficulties actually fitting a pickguard, so I downloaded a paper pickguard from Warmouth to see if the rout on my body is in the ballpark. Seems OK...



This is starting to seem like it could be a build.

I noticed that the neck has a fairly large glue stain around the sides of the nut. Should I sand this out? or I there a better way? I am not sure how deeply the glue has penetrated, and I don't want to take too much off.

[Simon Barden]

You could sand or you could try acetone. Acetone may affect the nut though if it's plastic.

[fender3x]

I may try that if it won't discolor the wood assuming light sanding doesn't get it. The nut is the original PB...so plastic. I may knock it out first if I do use acetone. I plan to take your advice to leave it in for finishing, but I can put it back for that.

[fender3x]

I have parts coming at me now from many directions. I ordered a sung-il bridge from Korea, in part because it's a good price, and in part because the one on my hybrid is really good quality. Also ordered it because it will do either string through or top-mount. I am thinking I would like use it as top mount. I have heard that some people reinforce the bridge area with a harder wood on paulownia bodies, but so far I have only heard that problems may occur on strats with a trem. Paulownia seems to be used on basses and teles a fair amount and so far I am not seeing any issues...but I'd like to have the option of string-through if it ever becomes an issue.

I also ordered the "Black Gold" P-bass pup from Epic Custom Shop in Michigan. They were reviewed on the Guns and Guitars YouTube channel and a few other places. The guy who winds them recommended that for a vintage sound the Black Golds would be best. They sound good on YouTube and $45 with shipping for a hand wound pickup was too good to pass up.

I have pots from California, a string tree from somewhere in China and a neck plate coming from...well, the company is in China, but the delivery will is supposed to be on Thursday, so i assume it's in an Amazon warehouse on this side of the Pacific.

Now watching for a decent price on the lightest tuning machines I can find for the 1/2" post holes in my PB neck. I am thinking that the lightest available are Hipshot Ultralights. Anyone know of any that are lighter that will fit a 1/2" post-hole?