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Thread: clearcoat

  1. #1
    Member Kimbobass's Avatar
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    clearcoat

    I just got my djz-4 zebra wood. I want to clearcoat it and I'm wondering what would be the best product to use. any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Member Cliff Rogers's Avatar
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    Someone did a zebra wood with tru oil a while back and it went quiet dark.
    Cliff

  3. #3
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    I think Tru-oil is worth considering. Have a look for other builds finished with it and see what you think.

    Are you staining, or leaving the body as-is? Do you want a gloss, satin, or semi-gloss finish? Answers to those will help with recommendations.

    DC
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  4. #4
    Member Kimbobass's Avatar
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    Thank you DC for your recommendation. I am leaving the body as-is and was thinking about a satin finish.

    Kimbo
    Last edited by Kimbobass; 31-05-2020 at 09:12 AM.

  5. #5
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Have a look at this finish then. It is using Cabot's Marine Poly in a satin finish. Comes in a spray can so might be worth considering.

    DC
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  6. #6
    Member Kimbobass's Avatar
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    Thank you DC for the great advice I really like the look of this satin finish! I will definitely look into Cabot's Marine Poly satin!

    Kimbo

  7. #7
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    They also have a clear satin poly in non-marine grade: Cabothane Clear Satin Poly. I have a can but haven't used it since I switched to a clear gloss lacquer. You should probably look for the build diary for Sonic's guitar to see how he treated the finish after spraying and curing.

    As to the difference between the marine grade and normal, it's likely to do with how water and weather resistant the finish is. Maybe that helps if you are gigging with the bass, maybe not. I don't know.

    DC
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  8. #8
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Marine grade mostly means its resistant to water damage and isn't as potentially porus as a regular poly. It's also UV stabilised, which isn't much of an issue for a guitar, but I like that it's really durable. I'm considering making it my primary finish option as it's pretty straight forward to get a nice finish and way less mucking around than cutting and polishing up a gloss. It also feel really nice in your hands, which I think is important for a guitar. Worth grain filling prior to application with a sanding sealer. I've just been doing an application, blocking back and then doing around another 2 or 3 applications and it comes up pretty well. I think using a sanding sealer will reduce the amount of poly I need to spray though. Will find out on my next build.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  9. #9
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    ... it's pretty straight forward to get a nice finish and way less mucking around than cutting and polishing up a gloss. It also feel really nice in your hands ...
    That's enough for me. I think I will use my can of Cabothane Satin Poly for all of the next build. Might go with an ash body and clear finish.
    Mantra: No more pedals, must finish BlueyCaster...
    Disclaimer: I haven't done woodwork since high school, and wasn't really paying attention at the time ...

  10. #10
    Member Kimbobass's Avatar
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    Thank you DC I appreciate all your help!

    Kimbo

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