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Thread: 2nd Build 335

  1. #1

    2nd Build 335

    The first one isn’t done yet...but it’s close....and the second one is here.

    Going to do a 335 style thing.

    Hardware and pickups still up in the air.
    Was impressed with the vintage kluson style grovers so will use those.

    Was thinking classic red, but on reflection, I think it’s going to be stained black japan with golden teak underneath for some warmth. Tru Oil finish again.

    Going to make a headstock veneer out of some brown tortoieshell celluloid, maybe a pickguard too.

    Going to simplify the wiring somewhat since I never use it (with humbuckers...what are tone knobs for? You want it muddier?), just go for one volume, switch, output.

    Anticipated issues:

    1. Finishing.
    Can’t bolt it up on a stick like a bolt on...don’t see anywhere I can really suspend it since I’m just working on my desk....feasible to stain and oil in a rotation?

    1.a getting the neck join to look seamless...gonna assume there is a trick there.

    1.b glue and scratches on the veneer
    The veneer looks a little beat up really, I think there are a few glue spots around too, not really sure. But even if I go through the veneer, the dark finish allows me some leeway so not too worried.

    2. Setting the neck
    Terrifying. Never done anything like it.

    3. Getting the electronics inside the damn thing.
    I read the 5mm tubing trick, genius. Wish I knew that when I was 21 and gigging with an epi 335 whose output and switch kept falling into the body no matter what I did. Still, this seems damn fiddly.


    Any other unanticipated issues with these kits?

    The kit is very handsome and after wiping with some turps the flame looks lovely, but its certainly rougher than the DCjr.

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    The neck seems to slot in pretty tight, looks pretty right to go...but before I start sanding...anyone see something I don’t? Is that neck pocket unevenness okay?

  2. #2
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Some people use a G-clamp holding on to the inside faces of the two pickup routs and suspend the guitar from that. It is still a bit of a balancing act. I just did one side of the body at a time on mine. A bit slower, but easier.

    If you build a wiring harness using stiff wire with no excess cable lengths, you can put the electrics inside the guitar using just your fingers and some needle-nose pliers. I've done it. Some cotton around the toggle switch helps but it's not really necessary.

    The neck really is simple as you can't go wrong with position.

    I'd smooth the bottom of the pocket out a bit, but not too much. The small 'wings' on the top of the neck cut-out by the fretboard will hold the bottom of the neck off the bottom off the pocket if you aren't careful are remove too much wood just in order to get it smooth. Which is why you need a few good clamps to hold everything together when gluing it in, and leave it for the full 24 hours before removing them as the neck joint will be under tension.

    If in doubt and there is a bit of a gap, you can stick a thin piece of maple veneer in the bottom of the pocket first and sand that back a bit if necessary. But make sure that gets the full 24-hour clamp treatment as well.

    I've just glued the neck in on my ES-1 and it's fine.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post

    If you build a wiring harness using stiff wire with no excess cable lengths, you can put the electrics inside the guitar using just your fingers and some needle-nose pliers. I've done it. Some cotton around the toggle switch helps but it's not really necessary.
    It's a bugger of a job Simon I have 5 here I got to do and it still frustrates me to death its the worse jobs of building a guitar id rather have a big dent in the body than tackle the pots on a hollow bady 😫

  4. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Had them all in and fully done up within 5 minutes on the one I did! If you have a stiff harness that keeps everything exactly in place, then it really is simple. Fine for a 335-style anyway. Not as good on other hollow bodies.

  5. #5
    Thank for the input guys.

    I’v been making a real hash of it.

    At first all was well, didn’t think there was much in the way of glue marks....obviously I was wrong.

    Sanding went well, staining on the back went well. Really happy with it.

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    The front showed some really messy glue stains pretty much all over, heavy through the join in the veneer, then splatters pretty much everywhere.

    Okay I thought, I’m not attached to the veneer and I actually like thhe figuring on the back better any way...I’ll just sand through.

    Now...this was going okay getting a nice grain coming through....but then these shiny patches emerged that seemed to be under the grain or something.

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    Now...is this glue that I should just sand through or remove in some way? Or am I know in ‘find out how to paint solid colours’ territory?

  6. #6
    Decided to abandon the front for the moment as my headstock veneers came early.

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    This went a lot easier than last time with timber.

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    Just gotta cut the hole for the truss rod and polish it up now. Heard brass polish is good for this....anyone else done it before?


    My thinking with the body is to leave the sides and the back how they are and do a solid gold top.
    Never done this before so any advice would be welcome.

    Thinking it is a 1. Sand it smooth. 2. Prime it. 3. Colour it. Clear coat it. 4. Wet sand. 5. Polishing
    Think im going to with just acrylic from duplicolor.

    Might do some kind of gold glitter clear on the back and sides too.

  7. #7
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jomasgaard View Post
    Thank for the input guys.

    I’v been making a real hash of it.

    At first all was well, didn’t think there was much in the way of glue marks....obviously I was wrong.

    Sanding went well, staining on the back went well. Really happy with it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The front showed some really messy glue stains pretty much all over, heavy through the join in the veneer, then splatters pretty much everywhere.

    Okay I thought, I’m not attached to the veneer and I actually like thhe figuring on the back better any way...I’ll just sand through.

    Now...this was going okay getting a nice grain coming through....but then these shiny patches emerged that seemed to be under the grain or something.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3A188D10-ADF4-439E-BBFC-738B621FBF33.jpeg 
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    Now...is this glue that I should just sand through or remove in some way? Or am I know in ‘find out how to paint solid colours’ territory?
    Well, you have sanded through the veneer, so this would have been the glue holding the veneer to the top. If you keep sanding the veneer off it will be sanded off.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  8. #8
    Had a go at it....think it might be completely soaked into the timber underneath.

    Anyway, warming to the idea of a gold top, so went and picked up some grey primer, aurora gold, and a couple of cans of clear. Now for a warm day. Don’t know...might be waiting a while in the hills.

    In the meantime I’ve had a go polishing up the headstock with 1500, 2000 then turtle wax polish.

    Looking pretty good.

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  9. #9
    Oh, yeah, headstock looks nice
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  10. #10
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    Wish me luck....

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