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Thread: Jon's 335-style build

  1. #21
    Mentor JohnH's Avatar
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    Looks fantastic!
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
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    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  2. #22
    Mentor fender3x's Avatar
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    Really amazing. You're right, I think. Always stop the finishing process when you get to "amazing" ;-)

  3. #23
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    Thanks guys. The last six coats (or so) were 50:50 TO and turps, with a wet sand with 1200 grit and turps after every second coat. I've borrowed that method from wazkelly. The diluted oil really does go on shiny and seems to do a good job of flattening out minor uneveness. It also seems to attract dust and dog hair like a magnet ;-)

  4. #24
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    I've just passed the terrifying milestone of drilling the bridge post holes, which seems to have gone OK. Here are some photos along the way. I've levelled and dressed the frets, which were actually pretty good, set the neck, and applied plenty more tru oil along the way.

    I wasn't quite sure which angle to drill the post holes at - perpendicular the plane of the strings, perpendicular to the plane of the body (i.e. the edge binding), or what looks like perpendicular to the top on that particular spot. I went with the latter, and built a simple jig to keep the body at the right angle while it was on the drill press. I don't know about measure twice and cut once - I must have measured fifty times! Still, they appear to be in the right place - I guess I'll only find out when I bang them in. I ended up with a 12mm drill bit after tests with an 11mm bit on some scrap where I couldn't begin to get the post in the hole.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by jonwhitear; 29-06-2020 at 11:24 AM.

  5. #25
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Perpendicular to the strings is the ideal. Anything else and as you adjust the bridge height the bridge will move backwards or forwards relative to the strings so you'll then need to adjust the intonation (if it was set before). But as long as the resulting angle isn't too great, then it won't be an issue as you won't adjust the height much once you've done your basic set-up, and then by a couple of mm at most.

  6. #26
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    Thanks Simon. I think it was pretty close to perpendicular to the strings in the end, as better seen here. The neck's looking pretty level.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #27
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonwhitear View Post

    I don't know about measure twice and cut once - I must have measured fifty times!
    Infinitely preferable to measure a couple of times, have a bash, re-measure, swear furiously then dissolve in big salty tears.

    Well done Sir.
    FrankenLab Guitar Experiments
    Making the simple complicated since 2016!

  8. #28
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I think on any curved body, any post insert with a lip at the top is always going to be a bit of a compromise. Unless you drill a small rebate for the lip to sit in, any hole that isn't drilled at a tangent to the top will result in one edge of the lip hitting the body before the opposite edge and leaving a gap. Unless it's a really soft body wood, you aren't likely to be able to knock it in much further and remove the gap. So IMO it's generally better for the aesthetics to take precedence, unless the bridge will sit a long way from the body. Which is never a good idea if you can help it.

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