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Thread: Scratches on fretboard.

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by jugglindan View Post
    On the Tapatalk main page, click the big Add New button, then search for build your own guitar

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
    Yes, thanks.
    Now it won't let me send a photo from my phone gallery and it doesn't tell me how to resize it.
    I haven't had a chance to start my kit yet as I'm pretty busy with work.
    I'm just about to send the scratch plate off to earlpilanz on ebay to make me a black 3 ply one.
    I've had one from him before, is he known on here?

    Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk

  2. #12

  3. #13
    Yes but for people without all the tools and a workshop like me it is a handy resource was all I meant really.

  4. #14
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It looks reasonable. But I no longer use eBay otherwise I'd be tempted to try them out. Doesn't look like they've got a non-Bay outlet. I'll need to make at least a couple of scratchplates for my builds and I'm not looking forwards to it, as I know it;s so difficult to get good straight lines and good inner corners from modifying existing ones.

    If they've got the original as a template, it's very easy to make another. The kit scratchplates are often just that little bit different in size/shape to off-the-shelf scratchplates.

  5. #15
    I've sent him mine for a black 3ply one, for a black sg jr with upgraded pup and electronics.


    Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    Member
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    J.R. You can have at the scratches with impunity, using sandpaper of increasing fineness, until the scratches are invisible/gone. Just protect the frets so you don't scratch them. You'll never notice the board being a little low. Hell you can scallop the lot of them if you can be bothered.
    Stewmac strat, tele
    DIY starcaster
    PBG LP-1M x2
    HB-4 x2(L)
    12 string strats x3
    Ex1(L) Ex1(R)
    TBJ5
    PB4(L)
    PBG2
    IB-5(L)
    ES-1TL x2
    scratch lapsteel (half finished)
    AG-1(L)

  7. #17
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    Of course you'ld have to finish the wood after removing any oil or other finish. For a rosewood board my preference is tung oil. You can wet sand it in with 2000 grit wet and dry and there forms a slurry of wood sanding and oil that fills in small irregularities, ends up feeling like a baby's bum. Wipe it off after 30mins, rub it down a few times as it takes a feww days to dry.
    Stewmac strat, tele
    DIY starcaster
    PBG LP-1M x2
    HB-4 x2(L)
    12 string strats x3
    Ex1(L) Ex1(R)
    TBJ5
    PB4(L)
    PBG2
    IB-5(L)
    ES-1TL x2
    scratch lapsteel (half finished)
    AG-1(L)

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    it;s so difficult to get good straight lines and good inner corners from modifying existing ones.
    Lot's of practice with a jigsaw and various types of sandpaper (taped to side of the ruler for straight lines).

    cheers, Mark.

  9. #19
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Oct 2016
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    Reading, UK
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    10,547
    I have ideas about how I'll get straight lines, but I'll need do do some small cut-outs to fit around some P90s, and getting those neat is a bigger issue. Another learning/swearing experience.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by wolfred View Post
    J.R. You can have at the scratches with impunity, using sandpaper of increasing fineness, until the scratches are invisible/gone. Just protect the frets so you don't scratch them. You'll never notice the board being a little low. Hell you can scallop the lot of them if you can be bothered.
    Thanks

    Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk

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