First Build: TLA-1Q

[Jasper Blunt]

Hi everyone!

ordered my first kit in early April and am waiting eagerly on it's arrival (patience is a virtue in these times).
Ive already got crimson stains as im planning on a nice blue colour. Im also replacing the pots and pickups with genuine fender components that my dads friends got down the road.

Some questions i have
What would people recommend for that classical yellow neck look? i'm trying to figure out what id need to get to get a good result for that.

apart from that ive got both my design teacher at school and said dads friend down the road for other things (planning on lacquering the body at school)

Thanks will keep this thread up to date

[jugglindan]

A lot of people have used Feast and Watson Golden Teak stain with a poly coat over the top. Here's one example but you should be able to find others with search.

[Andy40]

If you got your hands on Crimson stains, it sounds like you are in the UK. Not sure if you have access to Feast Watson stains there. I'm not a fan of them anyway.

If you are in the UK you should be able to get your hands on Wudtone products fairly easily. I'm sure Simon will have some ideas.

[jugglindan]

I didn't realise Crimson was a brand. So I was puzzled by how a blue guitar was going to arise from crimson-coloured stains

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

[Simon Barden]

Tru Oil will give a slight yellow tinge to the wood, which will deepen over time. But I use amber tinted nitro lacquer. Tins of clear and tinted amber tinted nitro lacquer always seem to spray well, though you do need to use a vapour mask when using the stuff. More layers = darker tint. So you may want to then spray a couple of coats of clear over the top once you get it dark enough. Bright yellow or orange isn't a good look for a neck!

[Jasper Blunt]

alright cheers will have to head to bunnings thursday (last exam on wednesday)

Is there any issue with wiping the poly over the frets? (new to this whole business)

[Simon Barden]

You'll always end up with some finish on the frets which will normally clean off fairly easily. Mask off the board with masking tape so that you can sand and polish the frets to get rid of any clinging finish. It's almost as easy to do a complete fret levelling exercise at this point, as you don't need to do much more work and you'll end up with a much better p[laying guitar. But you'll certainly need a notched straight edge, a fret file and ideally a 12" radius block, all available fairly cheaply from Amazon or eBay.

[McCreed]

Is there any issue with wiping the poly over the frets? (new to this whole business)

Hi Jasper, and welcome.
I think we're presuming you have a maple neck with maple fingerboard, but you haven't specified that or whether you have a or maple neck with rosewood fingerboard.

The difference being that a maple fingerboard, yes, clear coat over the frets as Simon described. Rosewood fingerboard, no clear coat on fingerboard.

Also further to what Simon mentioned about using "tinted" clear coat, this method will provide a more even colouring as opposed to staining the neck timber.
It's not that you can't get an even finish staining, but it can be hit or miss depending on the timber itself.

And to further quote Mr Barden:

Bright yellow or orange isn't a good look for a neck!

I learnt this the hard way... not one of my better finishes, but it plays like a mofo!

[Jasper Blunt]

yep forgot to mention maple fretboard. Im going to stain with the teak stain and then wipe on poly. Im going to just make a notched straight edge, but file and the radiused sanding block are on the way.

the kit was backordered and i ordered April 8th so does anyone have any idea when it will be here? im not in a hurry or anything and obviously there are difficult circumstances around, im just very excited!!

[Simon_B]

I ordered Straw ColorTone based on a StewMac YouTube vid where they used it to match a vintage neck repair. I didn't want too much amber in mine.

Haven't used it yet maybe get to that next week.