1st Build - a TLA-12

[Ren]

A gift from the kiddo because he wants to hear me fingerpick a 12.


Experienced mild confusion re bridge and holes for strings. Duh - different to acoustic guitars, but finally figured it out. All the parts are there and seems I have stuffed up already by sanding across the binding. Last resort could rout it off with a bullnose router bit.

Any other 12 string builders out there?

[dozymuppet]

That kitty seems ready to claim the box that it came in.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[Ren]

BUGGER. Messing about checking bridge and bridge pickup placement. The through body holes for the strings and the routed slot for pickup match up perfectly with the bridge plate, but on measuring 12th fret to bridge I find the distance is 10 -12 mils too long. There is not enough available adjustment on the bridge so need to move 12th fret towards the body.
Options, rout a piece out of the back of the neck to move it forward in the slot, or rout out between the slot and the neck pickup slot?
Anybody else experienced this type of issue and/or any other remedies I may have overlooked?

[McCreed]

Before you go hitting anything with the router, 10-12 mils seems like a long way off even for a kit.
Try this:

1) Adjust the treble E saddle so it's far enough forward (toward neck) so it has about 2mm of adjustment screw thread exposed into the string lot of the saddle)

2) Now measure your scale length from the inside of the nut to the break point of the treble E saddle. Forget about the 12th fret x 2 thing you may have read.

3)Report back after that.


You've mentioned a router in 2 out of your first 4 posts already. Step away from the router!

I'm not saying there won't be a need for it at some point, but most initial issues with these & other kits can be remedied with less drastic measures.

[Ren]

Thanks for your reply, McCreed. Okay - adjusted the saddle screws to 2mm. Measurement nut to treble E is 654 and to bass E is 656. Nut to 12th fret is 323.
Routers always last resort.

[cork sniffer]

This has been on the back burner while house renovations etc took over. Intend getting back into it February.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9068
I'll be watching your progress and hopefully revive my thread.

Edit ...
Sh*t, I just noticed it's been a little over 2 years since I've touched this project and close to 3 since the kit arrived. I'm sure this isn't a record but I'm now keeping company with the slackers

[McCreed]

Thanks for your reply, McCreed. Okay - adjusted the saddle screws to 2mm. Measurement nut to treble E is 654 and to bass E is 656. Nut to 12th fret is 323.
Routers always last resort.

648mm is the magic number (on paper) so you're getting closer.
Another thing to check, where a mil or two may be lost is whether or not the butt of the heel is fully mating up to the end of the pocket. Sometimes the corners of the heel may need sanding or filing to allow proper fitting.

Lastly, the point on the saddle to measure to is the "break point" which is last point which the string makes contact with the groove on the saddle. Right where the string "leaves" or "breaks" from the saddle. So you're not measuring from physical end of the saddle block or inside of the slot in the saddle block. That difference in measuring point can easily make up or loose 2mm.

Sorry if I'm telling you stuff you already know. I'm just trying to be thorough and making some assumptions as you noted it's your first build. These kits a generally very good, but are not "Ikea" and do require some finessing here & there.

FWIW, on some of my guitars, the treble E's intonation point ranges from 647 to 651. Not every instrument is going be exactly bang on 648. There are multiple variables and some are simply inexplicable.

[king casey]

From bodge central: You can also get some slightly longer machine screws for the 2 higher strings.

edit: Not so much as a bodge, but 3 Trem-Kings have all come with a few extra length machine screws that momentarily had me scratching my head. (what are these for?)



cheers, Mark.

[Ren]

Butt is mated up solid and straight. Measurement is to the break point. Yes getting a little closer, within wood rasp and 80 grit realms?

[McCreed]

Ok, that's good. You still at 656mm?

Given the string-through holes are pre-dirilled, Mark's suggestion of longer intonation screws is a solid, non-invasive option.

There has been a history of TL kits (not all) having bridge position issues, but usually involving the bridge pickup route preventing the bridge placement for correct intonation. Generally only around 5mm or so. When you're initial report was 10-12mm, it was red flag for me, thus prompting me to off the advice above.

Now that you've worked through the points I suggested, and at least gained (or lost?) about half what you needed, the longer screws is probably your best bet.

You should only need longer screws for the E & B saddles as the rest of the strings will intonate further back then those two, but may need them for all 6.

Keep us posted!

Edit to add:
The intonation adjustment screw size are M3 x .5 x (length) - probably need 20-25mm