Coat on top of dingo tone?

[IngridM]

I've had some issues with streaking/lines in my Tru-Oil, which I'm sure is applicator (me) error.
I think the main issue is some coats have been too heavy.
Am I working it all the way in until it looks more of a matte finish, or just coating it all?
I am using old t-shirt and seem to be getting streaks with both approaches.

Also if anyone has advice for sanding back the neck between T/O coats? I have flexible sanding pads/foam blocks but the first go did not turn out well. Very uneven and I'm scared of going right through the T/O.

[McCreed]

My first thought would be, yes, possibly too thick. Hard to say for sure without seeing it.

As for t-shirt material, that's what I use, but I make sure it's good 100% cotton material. I just think it makes a difference in the way the cloth absorbs the Tru Oil (or poly). That may be all in my head, but it what I do.

Secondly, I cut the cloth into roughly a 5" square (125mm) and fold it into a nice tight "pad". Ends up about 30mm or so wide.
When I fold it, I fold all the edges into the middle from each direction (if that makes sense) so that there are no "cut" edges exposed on the folded up pad. This prevents any loose fibres from the cut fabric fraying and leaving debris in the finish or leaving trail marks by dragging through the wet finish.

Once the pad has been sufficiently wetted (after the first few applications) I only re-wet with about 5 or 6 drops of finish from the bottle and work in small areas at a time. I just keep repeating with that process until I get progressively even patches covering the entire work area. This is less than scientific, and the actual quantity of oil/poly is not much more than an educated guess. You'll just have to play with it to see what works for you. Also, I work in straight lines (like painting) not a circular motion.

re: sanding - I don't sand between every coat. My first sand (with a synthetic sand pad) is not until I have enough coats that it's built up enough to actually developing a bit of a sheen, then, it's only enough to basically de-nib the surface. Subsequent sanding I only do after every 6-8 more coats unless there is something that needs fixing before the next coat (debris, fingerprint, bug).

edited for some typos

[GregLane]

I have used truoil on three guitars starting as a rank amateur ( now just an amateur)

I find truoil very forgiving. You can find lots of truoil comments in my builds below.

My current procedure is as follows starting on raw or filled wood and stain.
1. 3-5 thick coasts
2. Before the next coat id rub with a:
Grey 748 Norton Bear-Tex Pad
SKU: BTP748
Final Shine pad.
Colour - Grey
Microfine, Grit 1000 -1200
Grain - Silicon Carbide
Size - 150 mm x 230 mm
The finest Bear-Tex grit available, producing the highest quality surface finish.

available from the Sandpaper Man or any paint shop. Scotchbrite has a similar product.

A light rub taking of any marks in the last coat until the you get a light matt finish. A litttle extra rub on blemishes

3. Same for next 5 coasts.
4 Level with a fine micromesh pad. One in the middle of the pack obtained from Sandpaper Man. I have not had success with 1200 sandpaper. It leaves fine scratches you only notice after the next coat.
5. Five more coats . Light rub between each.
6 Another level with microfibre.
7 etc. I have never done less than 30 coats

7 Finally 2 coats of Tru-Oil 50/50 with Turps ( Nice and wet but smooth). Do not rub in between.

Hope this helps. Does get a bit nerve racking. But always fixable with care. In particular check my ES build for drama.
Good Luck
Greg