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Thread: Kirk’s ST-1 Ash Build

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by jugglindan View Post
    I don't know what colour that is, but I would investigate nearby stores that offer the Dupli-Color Perfect Match paints. They can match pretty much any late model car colour, so the next step is to find a late model car with the colour you want. There are lots of people here that have gotten fantastic finishes with Dupli-Color.

    I am not sure where you are, but in Australia both Repco and SCA offer the Perfect Match stuff.

    The one thing I don't suggest is what I did. I bought a discontinued Dupli-color metallic blue (seen here) on clearance at $6 a can. This was fantastic value until I needed another can a month or two later. I got lucky and bought possibly the last can in town, but only after a frantic race from one end of the city to another. Not something to repeat.

    Of course, in hindsight I could possibly have used the Perfect Match to match it, but I didn't know about that option at the time.
    Thanks for the tip, I am based in Brisbane so I’ll definitely check out SCA and Repco for those paint options, as well as one or two auto paint places to see what they can do. Thinking of buying a litre to use and paint via a spray booth.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    Welcome Kirk. Thanks for starting a build diary, we are all now following along on your journey. What did you do with those designs in illustrator to get them into those physical black jigs? Some sort of laser cut trickery? What material is that?

    If your not going to go for Olympic white, then I rekon your metallic sage green is a good one to aim for. Just don't tell Wayne or Garth. Make sure you test all your finishing steps on some scrap first. There are a few current builds going on using metallic under gloss, so lots of trials and tribulations to learn from right now.

    Keep up the good work, mate.
    Thanks for showing interest! I’ll appreciate any help and pointers from the community along the way.

    The Illustrator files are self created, I just took the templates of the headstock and traced it. I then took a photo of my guitar neck and dropped it into illustrator at 1:1 size. I then created a straight edge notched where the fret bars were located. After that, a bit of 3mm transparent black acrylic lasered did the trick.

    If i were to do it again, I’d take the two headstocks lasered, and make them one solid piece that has a bend in it to wrap around the headstock...that way i could easily throw it on, put a bolt through one of the tuner holes and hit the coping saw with complete confidence.

    Currently planning for some laser work for the headstock and possibly the back of the guitar neck during the finishing process...

  3. #13
    Session #2

    Ended up being a bit of a slow day... didn’t get much time to dedicate to the guitar, but managed two things.

    1) I hit the headstock with 180 grit and 240 grit, and finally got some of the notches removed left over from some shoddy coping saw work when initially shaping the neck. End result looks good, but more sanding to come over the weekend.

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    2) The heel of the guitar neck did not fit the cavity of the body upon arrival. Forcing it would cause damage to the side of the cavity wall. I needed to sand. I took some 240 or 280 grit sandpaper, and with a sanding block I sanded away both sides of the cavity. I didn’t sand the bottom of the cavity. I also didn’t touch the heel of the neck with the sandpaper. I lightly sanded one side a few times, then the other side of the cavity...then i would try and fit the neck, and repeat the process until it fit. That way i ensured that i didn’t take too much material off one side of the cavity in relation to the other. End result, the neck fit with a very snug fit. Now onto continuing a dry fit and figuring out what on earth i need to do about where to set the neck in relation to the nut and the bridge. More research needed there.

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    Weekend’s plan is to Dry Assemble, mark out that set out with some light pencil work, and hit the ST-1 guitar body with 140 grit and 280 grit using a bigger sanding block to try and not create waves in the timber.

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  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Retroman33 View Post
    Thanks for showing interest! I’ll appreciate any help and pointers from the community along the way.

    The Illustrator files are self created, I just took the templates of the headstock and traced it. I then took a photo of my guitar neck and dropped it into illustrator at 1:1 size. I then created a straight edge notched where the fret bars were located. After that, a bit of 3mm transparent black acrylic lasered did the trick.

    If i were to do it again, I’d take the two headstocks lasered, and make them one solid piece that has a bend in it to wrap around the headstock...that way i could easily throw it on, put a bolt through one of the tuner holes and hit the coping saw with complete confidence.

    Currently planning for some laser work for the headstock and possibly the back of the guitar neck during the finishing process...
    Very cool. Do you have access to the laser technology or are you getting them commissioned? We are all here to help, so ask anything you want without fear mate.

  5. #15
    I have a mate who has one in his shop. Small one though, so will need to make my decisions before i put it all together!

  6. Liked by: Bakersdozen

  7. #16
    Current Workings...

    I’ve sanded the entire body of the guitar down (minus the cavities) with P280 grit sandpaper, both with the grain, against the grain and in a cross section direction. I’ve also sanded the back of the guitar neck and the headstock to ensure that it has the same feel as the body.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I’ve also been playing with branding the guitar, and have tried various logos and fonts...would love some feedback on what you like, what you don’t like and what you see....often times I can get too close to the work and cannot see what others see.

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    Still not 100% sold on the name and concept, but it was still far better than other options i had created and the name holds sentimental value.

    Just wanted to post this to show the various stages of my process and concurrent happenings both on the guitar and away from it.

  8. #17
    Looking good. Are you ever only going to make strats rather than any other type of guitar? Remember you have the bug now, so there will be more builds in your future. Just trying to help you future proof your designs.

  9. Liked by: Retroman33

  10. #18
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Maybe change 'Strats' to 'Guitars'? You won't get Fender coming after you then!

  11. Liked by: phrozin, Retroman33

  12. #19
    Hey Builders,

    I have a couple questions about setting up my guitar for my pre-assembly before i remove everything and start the painting process.

    I apologise if this information is elsewhere on the forum, but i have scoured what i could for information yet require some more specific instructions to move forward.

    1) I’ve set my ruler to run from the face of the nut all the way through my bridge, and I am looking at a 647mm distance. Do I need to have the bridge pushed up against the top of the cavity or do you sometimes screw the bridge on with clearance on all sides of the bridge not touching any part of the walls of the cavity? The parts of the bridge I refer to are the parts that will reside internally. Should the face showing be touching any part of the wall cavity?

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    If I have it touch the wall cavity, then do i retract the springs on the high E string to get it to 648mm?

    I’ve taken a series of photos, one with the bridge floating in the cavity at 647mm, another with the bridge pushed forward touching the wall cavity and the measurement being less, and another with the bridge pushed back...

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    2) How do i make sure my placement of the bridge is correct before drilling the holes and screwing it into the body? Should i move the high E bridge pin completely forward, move the bridge so its 648mm, and then drill and screw it in the there? Or should i be making the bridge sit flush with the pick guard cover and rearranging the high E pin backwards to meet 648mm?

    My assumption is that i should attach the pick guard, then attach the bridge so that it has a cohesive look in relation to the pick guard, then adjust the pins...but i want to ensure i am setting up the bridge correctly to avoid unwanted vibrations etc if i make a mistake in this setup.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Retroman33; 07-05-2020 at 11:00 AM.

  13. #20
    I’m sure I’ll be making another guitar as I already have one picked out...but I’ll name it something entirely different. These are all one offs as I don’t see myself making more quantities of the same model guitar.

    Did you have a preference between the options i posted? Which one did you like the best? I will certainly try “Guitars” instead of “strats”

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