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Thread: First Acoustic Build!

  1. #11
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    The kit came. Everything looks good. I was mistaken about the back - it’s already joined. I’m going to let the wood acclimatize a little while. Also my non-PB electric shipped today so that should be here by the weekend.
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  2. #12
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Nice kit. I see they've done quite a bit for you already, so it's easier than all the other ones I've seen to date.

    It should give you confidence, so you can fully scratch-build the next one.

  3. #13
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    Yeah it looks really nice. And yes they did a lot more work than I was expecting. No complaints from me on that front! I’m sure there will be a second acoustic kit in my lifetime so I can choose to do more or less work to that one.

  4. #14
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    First pass at the go bar deck. I’ll need to clamp the bracing to the back of the guitar, and later will need to clamp the top to the back/sides. When clamping the top I’ll need to accommodate the height so there’s not too much clamping load. What I will do is lower the top of the go bar deck an amount equivalent to the width of the guitar sides, and adjust the length of the go bars to have 8-10 lbs (4.5kg?) clamping force. I’ll build the back of the guitar at this setting. When time comes to clamp the top I’ll raise the top of the go bar deck, and using the same bars will have the same clamping force. This saves needing different length go bars, but does limit height about 4.5 inches or so. I have pvc tubing to cover the all-thread to help prevent damage to the kits and my soft skin, lol. I just need to find the length first. I may also reinforce the top plywood, not sure yet.

    I purchased the body mold. I thought it would be handy to have the center marked for radiusing, clamping in the radius dish, etc. So I marked the center of the go bar deck and marked the center of the mold. When I sand the sides of the guitar to the proper radius (using a dish) I’ll have a similar center Mark in the sanding table which I have yet to build.

    It will make sense when I get pictures.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Joe Garfield; 13-05-2020 at 03:01 PM.

  5. #15
    This looks great! Keen to watch this come together. I've always wanted to have a crack at an acoustic but somehow never find the time
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  6. #16
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    Radius dish is traditionally routed in MDF. To make that would require building a track with smooth radius then making then making tons of passes and even more dust. I sold all my tools and hopped a 1-way plane to paradise so I did it a little different.

    Most of it is self explanatory. I used various common sized material to make spacers then “calculated” where to place them using CAD (since I have my work computer at home.) I later out the blocks and epoxied them down, then gave them a touch of silicon to bond to the MDF and hold them in place in case they split. Finally I screwed down the top, starting at the center of course.

    I just did one because I’ve never done this and wanted to see if I would learn something to do different for the next one. But I will do it exactly the same.

    (Sorry for the sideways pics!)

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    Last edited by Joe Garfield; 18-05-2020 at 11:16 AM.
    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  7. #17
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    Here’s the body mold on top of the radius dish inside the go bar deck. This allows the guitar back to be placed inside and the bracing pressed in following the radius contour. Then when the top is glued on it gives the guitar a “nest” so everything sits right.

    I swear the pic is right side up in my iPhone!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    *Pictures may be rotated due to my proximity to the equator.

  8. #18
    Member samr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Garfield View Post
    Radius dish is traditionally routed in MDF. To make that would require building a track with smooth radius then making then making tons of passes
    You could always hang a router on a 15 foot length of rope. I can’t think of any possible downsides to that approach.

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