TL-1L First build

[Twodogies]

Yeah, wait for the Wilkinson to drill holes as they are a bit different to the kit ones. You've picked the common issue with these kits. You can assemble as is and it works fine, but you can also absolutely enlarge the bridge cavity and move the whole thing forward to close up that gap without any dramas, there is enough adjustment on the screws to take it up.

You can see me going through the same process in this first TL build I did

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8005

Oh also, I wouldn't be using the center fret markers as any kind of guide. The High and Low E string is the best way to make sure everything is running true.

Hey Sonic.

Good advice. Think I am going to wait. Had to route a bit our for the old fender pickup so hopefully haven't done too much damage using the different bridge plate.

Thanks for link. Beautiful build. Yep exactly what I am going through lol. Hopefully my bridge plate lines up neat as yours.

Also was just thinking. The string i used to line it up is brickies string which is pretty thick, a lot thicker than a high E string so I may have room to move there as well.

Thanks for your help.

[Twodogies]

The Wilkinson is a Telecaster bridge and the one on the kit is a Squier.
Attachment 34867

Cheers, Mark.

Arvo Mark.
Thanks for that pic. Shit big difference. Didn't even realise the difference when I bought it. Glad I didn't drill any holes before I asked for advice.

Thanks mate much appreciated

[Simon Barden]

There should be a gap of about 5mm between the front of the bridge and the pickguard, so you don't need to move it forward much at all, maybe 2mm maximum.

Here's the gap on one of my Fender Teles (I measured it at 5.25mm).

[Sonic Mountain]

I think it’s more about getting the gap even all the way around the bridge. The opening in the kit pick guard isn’t as wide as that, so a 5mm gap will still look off. I think I ended up with around 3mm all the way around in the build I posted earlier.

[Simon Barden]

I don't think you'll even have 2mm at the sides with that particular pickguard. Though it depends on the dimensions of the Wilkinson. The less you need to move it forwards, the less work you'll have to do enlarging the pickup rout.

Twodogies, I presume you did buy a left-handed Wilkinson bridge? I'm sure you did, but I just thought I'd ask as the pickup hole will slant the other way compared to a right-handed bridge.

[phrozin]

Good morning

Headstock complete. To be honest only so so but as it was my first attempt I am fairly happy



Just need some advice please.

For the neck finish not sure what to do. I am looking at 2 options.

Feast and watson golden teak. Stain fretboard and back of neck. Back of neck finished in wipe on poly with only pitbull wax on the fretboard over the teak stain.

Or

Pitbull Acacia neck kit to stain fretboard and back of neck. Use the final coat on back of neck with just the pitbull wax over the acacia fretboard stain no final coat on fretboard.

Just worried about compatability between the 2 different mixes. Say mixing water based stain with a spirit based finish. I think that's what I mean lol.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Steve

This is probably a bit late but the easiest way to go on a maple neck and fingerboard is are you looking for a vintage neck or just a nice neutral colour, if I'm doing an aged neck I use yellow Rit dye I mix up a weak solution and go over with just one or 2 coats and then use a spray can of clear acrylics lacquer if I want a glossy neck ill just polish it up or if I want a Matt super soft feeling neck I sand it back with 2000grit w&d and leave it like that, looks an feel beautiful

@ king Casey i don't reply much these days unless I can help but this method work especially well on squire necks don't use enamel or Bunnings clear that's good on furniture but not on necks ill try to upload a couple of pics for you it also works well over water slide decals I'm probably done over 50 Strats and Tele necks the same way, I thought Phil would have posted something like that its way easier than using messy enamels which look like crap

[king casey]

This is probably a bit late but the easiest way to go on a maple neck and fingerboard is are you looking for a vintage neck or just a nice neutral colour, if I'm doing an aged neck I use yellow Rit dye I mix up a weak solution and go over with just one or 2 coats and then use a spray can of clear acrylics lacquer if I want a glossy neck ill just polish it up or if I want a Matt super soft feeling neck I sand it back with 2000grit w&d and leave it like that, looks an feel beautiful

@ king Casey i don't reply much these days unless I can help but this method work especially well on squire necks don't use enamel or Bunnings clear that's good on furniture but not on necks ill try to upload a couple of pics for you it also works well over water slide decals I'm probably done over 50 Strats and Tele necks the same way, I thought Phil would have posted something like that its way easier than using messy enamels which look like crap

Hi Phrozin.
I've used SCA clear in the past but I've wasted a few trips to SuperCheap to find that they have none in stock.
I'm a cheap b@st@rd with finishes.
cheers Mark.

[Twodogies]

This is probably a bit late but the easiest way to go on a maple neck and fingerboard is are you looking for a vintage neck or just a nice neutral colour, if I'm doing an aged neck I use yellow Rit dye I mix up a weak solution and go over with just one or 2 coats and then use a spray can of clear acrylics lacquer if I want a glossy neck ill just polish it up or if I want a Matt super soft feeling neck I sand it back with 2000grit w&d and leave it like that, looks an feel beautiful

@ king Casey i don't reply much these days unless I can help but this method work especially well on squire necks don't use enamel or Bunnings clear that's good on furniture but not on necks ill try to upload a couple of pics for you it also works well over water slide decals I'm probably done over 50 Strats and Tele necks the same way, I thought Phil would have posted something like that its way easier than using messy enamels which look like crap

Hi Phrozin.
Actually not to late and any advice is always welcome.

I have colortone stain in lemon yellow and orange so might try a mix of those to see if I can get right look

Decided I'm progably going to finish it with SCA gloss acrylic lacquer. Also good excuse to get more stuff for the beast lol

[Twodogies]

I don't think you'll even have 2mm at the sides with that particular pickguard. Though it depends on the dimensions of the Wilkinson. The less you need to move it forwards, the less work you'll have to do enlarging the pickup rout.

Twodogies, I presume you did buy a left-handed Wilkinson bridge? I'm sure you did, but I just thought I'd ask as the pickup hole will slant the other way compared to a right-handed bridge.

Arvo Simon.

Yes made sure it is left handed. Sourcing decent lefty parts is hard in Aus. Usually out of stock.Waiting on parts from UK and the US sure slows builds.

Like the Wilkinson bridge. Aus was out of stock so ordered it from UK then found the Aus supplier had back in stock so ordered an allparts bridge from them.

So if anyone wants a new wilkinson lefty bridge for a tele I will have one going cheap lol ..or maybe just have to do another tele build later.

[Twodogies]

I think it’s more about getting the gap even all the way around the bridge. The opening in the kit pick guard isn’t as wide as that, so a 5mm gap will still look off. I think I ended up with around 3mm all the way around in the build I posted earlier.

Hi Sonic.

I am actually waiting on a new pickguard so hopefully that will make a bit of difference or if my OCD gets to bad might just try and make a pickguard from scratch and make it a nice fit