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Thread: GTL-1 Second build

  1. #11
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Your gouge seems to avoid the main contact areas where the screws will go, so is reasonably cosmetic. Grain filler doesn't have much structural integrity in large amounts, so I think a normal wood filler would be best.

    In terms of looks (as you should try to avoid painting in the neck pocket except around the very edges), you could consider filling the gouge, then sticking a piece of ash or maple veneer over the top. It will raise the neck up slightly, but not by much (and you can always sand the veneer even thinner first).

  2. #12
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    Typical, I ordered an assymetric neck plate off fleaBay over 3 weeks ago, supposedly from Sydney. I'd just given up on it!

    Today, I decided to have a work from home break - living in the study is becoming tiresome.

    Got the drill press out and decided to start the fit-up, half an hour later and before I'd put my tools away it arrived.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not sure I can be stuffed drilling the 4mm hole out to 8mm (the smallest dowells I have on hand) and doing more shaping!

    Any opinions?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    In terms of looks (as you should try to avoid painting in the neck pocket except around the very edges), you could consider filling the gouge, then sticking a piece of ash or maple veneer over the top. It will raise the neck up slightly, but not by much (and you can always sand the veneer even thinner first).
    Really good idea, but a lot of hassle for a hidden area! I think I'll leave it as bare primer.

  4. #14
    I've done this mod a few times already.
    Even as far as whittling away the neck area to fit in.
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    cheers, Mark.

  5. #15
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    I originally intended keeping it square but sloping off in a curve. The problem is the rectangular neck plate and screws is much better quality!

  6. #16
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    So I've spent 3 weeks making sawdust and getting close to painting. Although it's a pity to paint this body a solid colour.

    Since I'm not using any kit parts (no chrome kits left - and I would have changed the tuners bridge and pickguard anyway) I had to make a few modifications.

    I had to shim the control cavity to give the rear screw some wood to bite into with the Gotoh control plate and AllParts pickguard. I had to Dremel out the rear pickup cavity to give some intonation adjustment on the bridge. Then since the bridge is so chunky I had to take 1.5mm off the front of the neck pocket and angle it with a file to get some height adjustment on the bridge saddles.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    After Timbermate grain filling with a putty knife, sanding, painting on diluted Timbermate and 2 x 2 coats of FW Sanding sealer with sanding between each step the top and back are pretty smooth after 320 grit.

    My issue is I can still feel grain bumps in the body curves and roundovers. Should I do another few attempts with sanding sealer, Timbermate or just use a high build primer. I feel that the raised grain is a lot harder than the fillers and I just keep sanding bumps back in.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've probably given the game away as to the colour!

    Meanwhile the neck is almost ready for a final sand and fret dressing. I sanded the fretboard in line with the frets at 400 grit and it felt smooth. Then in line with the grain with 400 and it feels rough. I'll repeat that to 600 before I level the frets and stain / varnish.

    Final fret dress after finishing - but still struggling with the Logo!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'd give it a very light mist spray with primer or a main colour so you can then sand that back and see where the high spots and dips are. And if you use a large flat piece of wood and stick sandpaper on to it with double sided tape (or use the superglue and masking tape trick), then you should only end up sanding down the high spots first, and then everything else evenly.

  8. #18
    If you use Timbermate under paint it will shrink.

    cheers, Mark.

  9. #19
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    Most of the Timbermate got sanded off, ended up more used as a pore filler than grain filler.

    Thanks Simon, I was thinking of going with a primer coat soon. My issue is with the curves and roundover having grain bumps, the top and back are pretty good. I think I'll have another go or two with sanding sealer on the edges first. Maybe sand harder with a finer grit.

    Spent too much time and effort to bodge it now.

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