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Thread: The one rasp to unite them all

  1. #1

    The one rasp to unite them all

    Hi everyone

    I have more or less decided I will try and shape my headstock with a rasp. However, as I don't want to build a collection of rasps .... what is the 1 (or 2) I should buy that would cover most of this and any future needs?

    I'll probably order it from Bunnings.

  2. #2
    This is the only one I use.
    Does headstocks, arm and belly cuts.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    cheers, Mark.

  3. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Glebe, NSW
    I would get a Shinto Rasp and a coping saw.

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Size:  5.9 KBDepending on how much shaping is required, the coping saw is your friend to get the bulk of the work done and the Rasp for refining the profiles. The Shinto rasps are dual sided, a coarse cut for fast material removal and a medium side to refine the rough cuts. In practice you should be able to go straight to 80 grit from the medium side, at least that is what my experience has been.
    The only Caveat with that is that due to its length and width, it can be problematic to do tight concave shapes.
    Once your profiles are cut, then you can begin the joy joy task of SANDING!
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    At the very least I would follow FrankenWashie's advice of a coping saw then some form of rasp.

    I have an aversion to hard work so I can't imagine doing a headstock completely with a rasp. One day I'd like to get a scroll saw, but for now I use a jig saw, drum sander (in drill press) and finish by hand.

    Stanley Coping Saw at the BGS $18.99 - worth every penny IMO. If I couldn't at least have a coping saw, all my headstocks would look like paddles

    Like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  5. #5
    Nicholson make a 4-in-1 rasp (8" long, 2 tooth sizes, one flat side, one convex side), but I found a version that's 12 or 14 inches long, in a local builders providers. I gave one to a friend a few years ago to help with bow making. The 8" Nicholson doesn't really hog material away.

  6. #6
    Thanks everyone for your response. I was wondering if I could get away without a coping saw? If I do the standard strat shape ... is there a lot to saw away?

  7. #7
    All I used is a straight hand saw and marked out the most straight cuts to trim it down.
    The rest was tackled with the rasp followed by sand paper.
    Unfortunately I don't have the money to throw around on tools.

    cheers, Mark.

  8. #8
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    May 2013
    Hornsby Area, Sydney, NSW
    I cut headstock with a coping saw and then use 80 grit sandpaper. I rarely use a rasp for anything.

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  9. #9
    Mentor jugglindan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    I used a coping saw followed by a round and half-round rasp (depending on the curve radius) and then sanding. Mark's method of straight cuts --> rasp --> sanding also works. Just spending more time with the rasp.

    For rasps, I bought a three pack quite cheap - round, semi-round, and flat.

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