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Thread: My first build! ATL-1SW

  1. #11
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    What are your thoughts about upgrading the hardware?
    When I measured out the guitar it seems like the saddles couldn't be extended enough to get the scale length right.
    Did you go with the chrome hardware or the gold?

    Can you tell us what the measurements you have with the bridge in place?

    As for a bridge upgrade, I'm not fan of the cast metal saddles. A upgrade to solid steel saddles might be all that's required. Other than that, a bridge plate is a bridge plate IMO (maybe not always, but in this case I think so) and a different bridge will likely not "drop in". Probably require re-drilling at the very least, possibly additional routing to the pickup cavity.
    If the existing bridge is indeed not located properly, then you'll need to fill & drill anyway, so much of a muchness.

    There have been issues in the past with TL kit bridge positions, but I thought they had improved with the newer production. It may be alright as is, but if we have hard numbers it will be easier to advise you.

    For whatever reason, the top only required two coats, while the back took 5 to get to where I wanted it to be!
    I'm not surprised that two different timbers took the stain differently. Ash is a much more open grain timber by comparison to Maple.

    It looks great though, and the sunnies are a nice touch!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  2. #12
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    1. I've gone with the chrome.

    2. 325mm from the nut to the 12th. With the Bridgeplate pushed as far as I can towards the neck, and the saddles at full extension, its somewhere around 330mm from the 12th to the saddles. I'm hoping I can fix this issue with longer saddles perhaps?

    I have to order some new screws for the bridgeplate as I got a bit over-excited and ruined the heads. At least I was able to get them out!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #13
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    2. 325mm from the nut to the 12th. With the Bridgeplate pushed as far as I can towards the neck, and the saddles at full extension, its somewhere around 330mm from the 12th to the saddles.
    I'm not clear on where you're measurements are starting and ending, so I'll be specific here.

    Firstly, you're better off measuring from the nut (from "bridge side" of nut) all the way to the saddles rather than the 1/2 the scale x 2 method.
    And when you measure to the saddle, it wants to be to the point where the string "leaves" the saddle (aka break point), not the front of the whole saddle itself. Sorry if you know this already, I'm just trying to be thorough.

    If measuring the way I just described, and you can get the E1 (treble) saddle's break point between 648 - 651mm from the nut (with the intonation screw just flush with the saddle slot end) you should be fine to get proper intonation. The E1 is always going to be the closest to the nut) and typically the E6 (bass) is the furthest.

    Let me know how you go after double checking using the above method. Dinner's ready!!! Gotta go!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post

    If measuring the way I just described, and you can get the E1 (treble) saddle's break point between 648 - 651mm from the nut (with the intonation screw just flush with the saddle slot end) you should be fine to get proper intonation. The E1 is always going to be the closest to the nut) and typically the E6 (bass) is the furthest.
    Alright, I measured in this method and the was able to get 650 on the treble E1, with the saddle hanging on by a few threads. Same on the bass side, which leads me to believe I may have actually put the bridge on straight! haha.

  5. #15
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Alright, I measured in this method and the was able to get 650 on the treble E1, with the saddle hanging on by a few threads.
    You'll probably be okay with that. If you do need to go further ahead to get correct intonation, a longer intonation screw should get you there.

    Import guitar intonation adjustment screws a typically M3. (x 20 mm will do)


    Edit to add link:
    I use stainless steel and get them from these guys: fastenerssuppliers on eBay

    They're also located in QLD.
    Last edited by McCreed; 12-04-2020 at 11:19 AM.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    You'll probably be okay with that. If you do need to go further ahead to get correct intonation, a longer intonation screw should get you there.

    Import guitar intonation adjustment screws a typically M3.
    Thanks for your help mate, really appreciate it!

    Will let you know how it goes once I actually attach the bridge. Went to bunnings yesterday to get some screws for the bridge plate as I ruined the heads of the supplied ones, and they didn't have anything similar! Will have to contact PBG to see if they can sell me some. Unless I decide to buy a Gotoh bridge, in which case it will come with screws
    Last edited by joshyouare80; 12-04-2020 at 10:47 AM.

  7. #17
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    All good.

    Check my edit in the previous post #15 for intonation screws. As for bridge screw, yeah, you're not going to find them in a hardware store.

    You'll need to get them from a proper luthier/guitar parts store, like: Realparts, AUS Luthier Supplies; Guitar Trade or GuitarAust.

    Also, FWIW, I'm also in Bris Vegas if I can ever be of help. Well, not so much atm, but when we get back to "normal" whatever that looks like
    Last edited by McCreed; 12-04-2020 at 11:27 AM.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    All good.

    Check my edit in the previous post #15 for intonation screws. As for bridge screw, yeah, you're not going to find them in a hardware store.

    You'll need to get them from a proper luthier/guitar parts store, like: Realparts, AUS Luthier Supplies; Guitar Trade or GuitarAust.

    Also, FWIW, I'm also in Bris Vegas if I can ever be of help. Well, not so much atm, but when we get back to "normal" whatever that looks like
    Awesome, I just ordered some intonation screws! Do you know what dimensions the bridgeplate fixing screws are? Sorry, I am useless at this stuff!!

    I think I will take your advice and leave the bridgeplate as is for now, but am looking into buying replacement saddles. Do you know whether the stock PBG saddles are 10.5 or 10.8mm?
    Last edited by joshyouare80; 12-04-2020 at 12:04 PM.

  9. #19
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    The PBG saddles are 10.5 (52mm centre to centre) which standard on most import guitar bridges and Fender Mexican stuff.

    Here are a couple options for bridge screws: (either will be fine, but option 2 is cheaper postage)

    Bridge screws 1

    Bridge screws 2

    EDIT:
    Added 3rd option
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    The PBG saddles are 10.5 (52mm centre to centre) which standard on most import guitar bridges and Fender Mexican stuff.

    Here are a couple options for bridge screws: (either will be fine, but option 2 is cheaper postage)

    Bridge screws 1

    Bridge screws 2

    EDIT:
    Added 3rd option
    Once again, thank you!

    I have ordered a set of 6 Gotoh S21 solid steel saddles, along with the bridge mounting screws. Now I am just tossing up whether I want plain chrome machine heads, or get ones with white pearloid buttons to match the pickguard/binding...

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