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Thread: ST-1 String Buzz

  1. #1

    ST-1 String Buzz

    Hi there,

    So I’m at the stage where all hardware parts have been attached apart from the string trees. Will attach these once strings are on so they are lined up in exact position. So I’m stringing up now and noticed that the strings do not ring out any note whatsoever and just buzz completely, even if you fret on any fret it’s just the same buzzing. I had a closer look and can see the strings are basically laying on the fretboard, the last two or three frets the string is just sitting on top of those frets.

    So usually you’d probably look at the set up stage, ie truss rod adjustment to fix this issue. I’m beginning to question though, if I have attached the neck correctly being the string just sits on those last few frets. The screws on the neck plate seem tight and the neck itself seems flush to the body, just not sure though if I drilled those holes far enough.
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  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    That neck joint looks fine.

    First thing is to wind the adjustment up on the bridge saddles till you can play it. It's a good idea to get one of these:



    They are not expensive and are very useful. I'd normally aim for about about 1.5mm at the 12th fret, but anywhere up to 2 on the bass E is acceptable, generally I ball park it and then fine tune it over a couple of days.

    Then you would want to check the relief with one of these.



    I just made mine with a bit of alloy from the big green shed and a file. I used another guitar to mark the fret locations then just filed them out.

    This will let you see what kind of truss rod adjustment you need to do. If the neck curves away from the middle of the ruler, you need to tighten the truss rod. Looking down the neck toward the body, you need to turn it clock-wise. Loosen the strings, do about 1/4 of a turn, tune it, the let it sit over night, recheck and see if it needs more or not.

    If that doesn't improve things get back to us and we'll go from there.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Just seconding what Sonic said about the saddle height adjustment, however if you've already adjusted them as far up as they'll go and still have this problem, there are other issues that will need addressing. A photo of the bridge would be handy...

    Also:
    First thing is to wind the adjustment up on the bridge saddles till you can play it. It's a good idea to get one of these:
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    They are not expensive and are very useful.
    I will just caution you to not buy one of the $5 string gauge rulers you find on eBay (from "stores" that sell everything from cosmetics to camping gear). I made that mistake and the old saying "you get what you pay for" rings true. The markings were all way off when I measured them with my digital calipers.

    I have bought two since from reputable guitar tool shops at around $20 each and they are spot on with their measurements.
    One is a Planet Waves/D'addario and the other is unbranded but from a proper luthier supplies store.
    Last edited by McCreed; 23-03-2020 at 07:00 AM.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Fair enough, I have the exact one in the pic.. I think it might have come from Pitbull, but it's fine.

    EDIT: yeah looks like it was from here.

    https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...n-ruler-gauge/
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Looks like it's nothing that can't be sorted by adjusting the bridge saddle height. But just take the neck off (first loosen the strings and then put a capo on the first fret to keep the strings in place - or wrap some tape around the neck there to do the same thing - to save having to fit new strings) and check that there aren't any bits of wood or paint stopping the neck from sitting flat against the pocket. Just screwing in the screws can raise the wood around the screw holes, so smooth those areas down.

    I'd also (if not like it already) widen the neck screw holes in the body only, so that each screw just fits in without touching the side. This allows the screw to pull down tight as it can on the neck without the screw first maxing out on the body section.

  6. #6
    Thanks for your replies, I’ve taken photos of the bridge. Most of the saddle screws are screwed in about halfway down the hole, it doesn’t seem it will get much higher. Most of the strings seem to buzz at the 20th or 21st fret, the action is extremely low.

    I do have one of those rulers around that I can check this with, it maybe that I need to set the truss rod correctly.

    I will also recheck the neck attachment as Simon mentioned. On another inspection by eye, it seems like the edge of the neck near the join seems a little higher off the body if that makes sense.
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  7. #7
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You may need to fit a shim (easy enough to do),or even adjust the neck pocket or bottom of the heel to get the neck angle better, as you don't appear to have much extra height adjustment in those bridge saddles. But one step at a time. First check the neck join surfaces and then adjust the neck to be as close to straight as possible.

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