Tla-1

[glenwilliam]

Cheers Simon!

[glenwilliam]

I started on the tru-oil a little while ago now and finally rested on 12 coats. I got a really good level of shine out of it. For those who haven't used tru-oil and after 4-5 coats thinking you're not gonna get something shiny - keep going. Follow the process and you'll be pleasantly surprised. I could have stopped at around 9-10 i think but I kept doing it uneven and had to fix some stuff-ups.

[glenwilliam]

Then onto the copper tape!
I actually enjoy doing this part even though its a bit fiddly. I like the look of the copper against the body colour. Could even see this with copper hardware!




I also replaced the standard nut with the bone nut. I had to file the nut down ever so slightly as it was a little thicker than the standard one. But it fit in very tightly after some light sanding! No pics of that though

[glenwilliam]

Now I am stuck.

I'm a little confused on the wiring of this one as the wires are slightly different to the diagrams provided in the build manual links.

Edit: I've seen a few other threads about this so I will do some reading

[Sonic Mountain]

Yellow wire from the middle tab of the volume knob to the outside tab on the output jack. 1 black wire to the inside tab on the output jack. 1 black wire to the bridge plate.

I need to see the switch from a different angle, as I can't see the tangs from those pics - but one of those tangs on the body goes to earth. It looks like the output from the switch is already wired to to the outer tang on the volume pot (blue wire). Hot wire from each pickup to opposite tangs, earth wire (usually bare I think in these kits) from each pickup to the back of the volume or tone pots.

If you throw up some more pics of what you have coming out of the pickups and another shot of the switch, I or someone else can further clarify.

[McCreed]

Looking good! FWIW, I do a minimum of 24 coats when I do Tru Oil. That doesn't mean you have to, but I'm one of many that due more than 10-12. I've seen lots that are 30+.

re: your shielding -
You need to run the tape up over the edge of the route onto the body in at least one place on each cavity. (I overlap around the entire cavity if I can - but that's just me)

Secondly, you need to put shielding on the back of the pickguard (if it doesn't have it already) where guard goes over the neck p/u.

It's also a good idea to tape (or wire) so all three cavities have continuity. It's not visible in the photo, but the control cavity is also shielded and contacts with the neck p/u cavity.

[glenwilliam]

Thanks McCreed! I will update my shielding - makes sense to have some over onto the body and on the pickguard!

[glenwilliam]

If you throw up some more pics of what you have coming out of the pickups and another shot of the switch, I or someone else can further clarify.

Thanks Sonic. I think from the wiring forum I have what I need but if I get stuck I'll chuck up a photo of the switch

[McCreed]

...makes sense to have some over onto the body and on the pickguard!

With a proper shielding job you're creating a "Faraday cage". Think of it as a 6-sided metal box (in this case, copper) to keep out the bad mojo (RFI).

If you don't have a lid on the box (the shielded pickguard) you may as well not have the box at all.

[glenwilliam]

I finished this off last week and have been playing it daily since.
One of the machine heads was a bit dodgy (I think from the manufacturing process) which Adam replaced super quickly (actually gave me 2 replacements to try). I whacked that on and strung the thing up. I think I'd really love to get a professional setup for this guitar as, while its great to play as it is, could do with a bit better action which I'll leave up to the professionals I think (once this COVID stuff is past us!)

Thank you all for your assistance and suggestions that made this build relatively easy! I love the guitar and look forward to many years of terrible solos!

Anyway, here's some pics of the final product: