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Thread: Removing plastic nut on TL1. Very stubborn

  1. #1
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    Removing plastic nut on TL1. Very stubborn

    Having a reL issue trying to remove plastic nut..
    I have tried: craft knife around all outer areas
    Using a small wooden piece of wood and hammered nut from both sides
    Used a nail punch and hammer from both ends


    Any help would be really appreciated...I don’t was to break the wood at the far end of nut!

  2. #2
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Do you need to remove it in one piece? If not use a fine saw to cut out all but the last couple of mm next to the wood and carve out the rest shaving by shaving with a sharp knife or chisel. Most of all have the neck well clamped down safely while you're doing it, sharp tool in one hand holding neck down in the other is a recipe for cut fingers or worse.
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  3. #3
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    A different method to Jim's is to saw lengthways down the nut, cutting it fully in two, then using pliers across both sections should squash it together and should free both sides from the wood. Best to score a line down the middle first and use a thin craft-saw.

    However, there's never been a nut that I haven't eventually freed by constant gentle tapping, even if it takes quite a while.

  4. #4
    Member Cliff Rogers's Avatar
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    Try a bit of gentle heat to crack the glue.

    I have always managed to remove them with a few taps on the ends.
    Cliff

  5. #5
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    Thanks everyone....I will try heat first or if that doesn’t work I’ll use a saw. I have a tusk nut for replacement

  6. #6
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    By 'heat' just use a hair dryer, nothing hotter. Warm it up and then give it some more taps whilst the glue is still warm. If you tap towards the headstock, then only do it very lightly. I was telling a friend how to do it, but regardless, his first 'tap' was a significant 'thump' and half the wood in front of the nut came away with the nut. So, side to side only for any taps with a bit of energy.

  7. #7
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    A different method to Jim's is to saw lengthways down the nut, cutting it fully in two, then using pliers across both sections should squash it together and should free both sides from the wood. Best to score a line down the middle first and use a thin craft-saw.

    However, there's never been a nut that I haven't eventually freed by constant gentle tapping, even if it takes quite a while.
    I use this process and have had no issues to date.

  8. #8
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    For Tele and Strats I score the 2 top surfaces with a knife so as not to lift any of the finger board then grab the nut with a pair of pliers like the fret cutters on one end and twist up towards the opposite side and it lifts out easy. I find trying to knock it out you have to get the glue to release along the whole length of the sides and base whereas lifting it up from one end you get a mechanical advantage and have never had a problem with any nut and I don't have to worry about a misplaced hammer strike damage. In a pinch you can use a pair of needle nose pliers and just use the wire cutting part to grip the nut but I find the fret cutters to be easier.
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  9. #9
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    Do you use something like this to tap out the nut?
    https://www.grainger.com/product/24A...g!440074169008!
    Last edited by TZK321; 28-02-2020 at 10:32 PM. Reason: forgot the link

  10. #10
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    Got there with the nut removal....I also saw a utube use a large flat head screwdriver and a hammer . One good hit at the base both sides and a good tug with grips and it came out. Maybe I was to tentative initially.
    Thanks to all for advice.

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