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Thread: My new PRS 1Q kit

  1. #11
    Hi Mark, that was my thinking as I intend to add a Duesenberg Les trem. My preferred option was a 4x2 but it's a pita finding tuners. Also the only acceptable option with changing from the Gibson layout involved dowelling the tuner holes adding wings laminating front of headstock and redrilling. I agonised over it for 2 days and relegated myself to sticking with Gibson and if I encounter tuning problems I'll add a FR locking nut. But I think it will be ok, no dive bombing with a Les trem!

  2. #12
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tassieaxeman View Post
    I agonised over it for 2 days and relegated myself to sticking with Gibson and if I encounter tuning problems I'll add a FR locking nut. But I think it will be ok, no dive bombing with a Les trem!
    You haven't thought that through fully. There are no fine tuners on a Les Trem, so you'll never get it in tune with a FR nut. Locking tuners will certainly help with the stability though if you fit a trem.

    But any Gibson headstock is fine as long as the nut is cut well - which may be where your biggest issues will be if you haven't got a set of proper nut files. Even my Flying V is fine with a trem - and the string angles on that are even greater than on a Les Paul.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    You haven't thought that through fully. There are no fine tuners on a Les Trem, so you'll never get it in tune with a FR nut. Locking tuners will certainly help with the stability though if you fit a trem.

    But any Gibson headstock is fine as long as the nut is cut well - which may be where your biggest issues will be if you haven't got a set of proper nut files. Even my Flying V is fine with a trem - and the string angles on that are even greater than on a Les Paul.
    Good Point, I hadn't even considered that.
    Don't think it will be an issue, I only use a trem for expression not dive bombing.
    I do have a set of nut files .

  4. #14

    Unhappy

    Well, the direction of this build has changed a bit.
    Staining the body revealed a crack along the grain heading towards a tailpiece pin, it also revealed extensive cracking in the binding. Also the switch cutout is so close to the edge of the horn, binding the back is out of the question. It'll still play nice I hope, but the flaws will always annoy me
    Real pity, as the top came out fantastic.
    So I won't be wasting my efforts on a super high finish.
    I'll save that for my next build.
    I've come to the conclusion that kits are a false economy and will be sticking to scratch builds from now on. The 4 Pitbull kits I've bought have all had some issues.
    Even the last firebird was cracked through the switch rout, not a major problem I pinned it with a wooden nail but still an issue.
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  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Tassieaxeman View Post
    Well, the direction of this build has changed a bit.
    Staining the body revealed a crack along the grain heading towards a tailpiece pin, it also revealed extensive cracking in the binding. Also the switch cutout is so close to the edge of the horn, binding the back is out of the question. It'll still play nice I hope, but the flaws will always annoy me
    Real pity, as the top came out fantastic.
    So I won't be wasting my efforts on a super high finish.
    I'll save that for my next build.
    I've come to the conclusion that kits are a false economy and will be sticking to scratch builds from now on. The 4 Pitbull kits I've bought have all had some issues.
    Even the last firebird was cracked through the switch rout, not a major problem I pinned it with a wooden nail but still an issue.
    Ok, I may have been a little harsh, seems the binding is a common issue with these kits and turps based stain. Never had an issue with fresh binding, but seems there's a few threads on it regarding Chinese kits.
    The body crack seems to be stable, but nonetheless annoying.
    Guess I'll finish it nice and see how it plays before I go too crazy with headstock inlays.

  6. #16
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    What is the above photo? Is the white area reflection or the body crack? I’m having trouble working out what issue we are looking at.

  7. #17
    No it's reflection, I tried to show the hairline cracks in the binding, but my phone just whites it all out.
    The crack in the body isn't through the maple laminate its only in the mahogany, it's a shrinkage crack, as my PRS was the last in stock, it's probably due to spending a summer in the warehouse in Perth.
    It's all good I'll deal with the issue, just disappointing after initial inspection it seemed flawless.

  8. #18
    Change of plans, I ended taking 6mm off the end of the fretboard and regluing the binding, the new covered humbuckers had a slightly larger footprint and didn't quite fit, now I have ample clearance.
    I've also added a MOP inlay to the heel.
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  9. #19
    Bit of progress has been made, I've glued up the neck, all but finished the back and sides, finished the top.
    Now I'm onto, cleaning up the binding finishing the back and wiring it all up while I wait for my new inlay router bits to arrive so I can finish off the headstock with some pearl inlay.
    My wiring set up is a little complex, it's a LP, Jimmy Page setup with a split ground circuit, it should be silent.
    I'm using gotoh push pulls, artist bull buckets, orange drops.022, and a gotoh ³ way . Swtchcraft jack.bridge ground is soldered to the copper sheilding.
    All in all its turning out pretty well, I have a plan for the cracks in the binding, hydrogen peroxide on a cotton bud to bleach out the stain and fill with plastic epoxy and white plastic powder.
    Fingers crossed.
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  10. #20
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    I love the inlay on the heel!

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