First Build - AES-1 AHAHAHAHA

[Scramblermatt]

Hi all,

So this is my first ever guitar build and it’s safe to say that I’m a COMPLETE NOVICE!!!!!

I’ve ordered a AES-1 kit which has cleared customs now so thought I’d start my diary in anticipation on it arriving hopefully later this week.

I’m planning on staining the guitar in a cherry sunburst finish so any tips/advice/in-depth instructions on how to do that would be much appreciated!

I also will be swapping much of the hardware as I go for upgrades but we can go into that more as I progress!

So really right now I was hoping for any hints/tips/things to look out for from you guys? I’ll be asking a lot of questions so please be patient with me and I apologise in advance for if it gets too much!

I run a music school in Surrey and play in a few bands so am really hoping I end up with a guitar I can use on a regular basis!

Anyway, thanks chaps and I can’t wait to get started!

Matt

[McCreed]

Welcome Matt. (sorry for the pun )

If you take your time, read lots, ask lots... there's no reason you can't end up with a very playable "working" guitar.

There'll be plenty of experience here to draw on, from plenty of folk willing to share it.

You'll be surprised how soon into your first build, you find yourself planning the next! It's a disease I tells ya!

Cheers,
Mick

[Scramblermatt]

Thanks Mick! I can't wait to get started now and I'm sure you're right that I'll be planning the next one in no time!

[Simon Barden]

Here is my normal UK luthier and parts suppliers list

https://www.rothkoandfrost.com/
https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/
https://www.chrisalsopguitar.co.uk/shop/
https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/
https://www.allparts.uk.com/
https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/

As the kit has binding, I'd go for a water-based stain, as spirit/alcohol-based stains get into all the thin pressure cracks in the binding and can't be removed, whereas water based stains don't penetrate the cracks and sit on the surface and can be removed with a light scrape with a sharp blade.

[Scramblermatt]

Amazing thanks Simon! And thanks for the advice that's super helpful to know!!!

The kit is being delivered tomorrow so can't wait now!

[Scramblermatt]

So here it is! Only had a brief look as I had meetings this afternoon but the flame maple looks great!

[Simon Barden]

Yes, it does look good.

First thing to check for are glue spots. So use some turps. meths or white spirit to wet the wood. Any areas with glue on will show up lighter as it stops the liquid being absorbed - as it will also stop any stain being absorbed.

If there are any spots, these will normally be around the edges and along the veneer join line in the middle. A proprietary glue remover and a toothbrush will normally do the removal trick.

[gpjt]

First thing to check for are glue spots. So use some turps. meths or white spirit to wet the wood. Any areas with glue on will show up lighter as it stops the liquid being absorbed - as it will also stop any stain being absorbed.

Out of interest, would rubbing alcohol work for that too? Or would it damage the wood/dissolve the glue/something worse?

[JimC]

I'd be a bit wary about rubbing alcohol. The obvious UK equivalent, surgical spirit, has got a small amount of castor oil in, and I'm not sure what that would do do subsequent finishes.

[gpjt]

Re: using rubbing alcohol to look for glue:

It should be OK as long as you don't overdo it But it might evaporate a bit too quickly to see what's going on properly. Meths can be a bit like that so I use turps (oil painters turps). White spirit is fine but smells awful. It also shows up more of the grain pattern, so you can see what a clear finish would look like (or what a translucent finish would show).

I'd be a bit wary about rubbing alcohol. The obvious UK equivalent, surgical spirit, has got a small amount of castor oil in, and I'm not sure what that would do do subsequent finishes.

Thanks, guys! Will use white spirit, then.