Hey matt, that looks like such a great kit! As Mick said, it is addiction, I just finished my first and already planning for the next...
Regarding the finish, have a look at my build diary for a burst finish on a flamed maple top, but there are plenty of other examples. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ight=Rocknrolf
I used crimson stain shots and found it really easy to work with. I finished with acrylic clear.
Have fun!
Rolf
As Weirdy says, 'gently' is the word. Also tap on both ends. It may take a little while, but it will come loose. Any heavy taps and you're likely to take a bit of the neck with it.
Further to what Simon said about steaming the dent(s) out, you can use the same technique but a soldering iron instead of a clothes iron.
A soldering iron tip (I prefer a flat tip) will allow a more pointed, surgical approach.
Yes, it will likely take longer as you will only be doing small areas at a time, but it is more controlled and less likely to affect areas you don't want, or possibly the veneer adhesive.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Thanks chaps all your advice is invaluable to me!
A quick question, so I have to check the scale length and then the string alignment but how do I do that without fitting the tuning pegs? Do I just wedge them in or screw the high and low E into place?
Tomorrow is the first real day of work so we’ll see how it goes!
You can easily fit (and remove) the two E tuners (you don't need any more that that to check alignment), just don't drill the hole for the anti-rotation screw yet. The tuners screw in place from the top, so doing the nuts up reasonably tight will keep them in place well enough to run some string between the headstock and the bridge.
Haha as soon as I read this I realised I knew that!!! I think I’m getting a little nervous about starting and over thinking everything! Thanks for your patience though!Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Nothing wrong with being a bit cautious and wanting to check things on your first build. Even experienced luthiers can make mistakes now and then.
Always better to ask and double check if you are in any way not sure. Too many people post what they've done after they've done it, then realised that it wasn't the right thing to do.
A few other notes on string/neck alignment with a TOM bridge are:
Don't press in the bridge & tail piece bushings. Wrap tape around the threads of the posts just thick enough to friction fit into the post holes in the body (I use painters tape for anything involving guitars).
I also have some clear nylon tubing that coincidentally happens to be the perfect inside & outside diameter for doing this. It was a happy accident. I just happened to have some tubing in the shop.
You don't necessarily need to use guitar strings for this job. I use a heavy fishing line, but nearly any kind of string can be used.
Tie a big enough knot in one end to act as the "ball end" of a normal guitar string so it can be retained in the tail piece.
Then simply tie the other end to the tuner post and use the nut slots to hold the proper spacing.
It doesn't need to be tuned to any pitch, just tight enough that there's no sag.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
So it turns out I wasn’t being as stupid as previously thought!
The tuning pegs for this kit don’t screw in from the top there is just two screws to attach it from the back and a gold ring that slots in the hole...so do I just screw it in and accept there will be holes when I finish the neck or is the a super secret alternative??
And just out of interest which way should they go eventually...
1)
2)
Thanks again chaps!
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