After exhaustive searches for alternatives to the Fender tremolo system,
I've pulled the trigger on one of these.
I am following through on the threat to install a $230 tremolo system into a $30 guitar.
I don't have a router so the rotary tool (Ozito) will be called into action.
cheers, Mark.
Instructions start by dowelling up the 2 outside screw holes from a 6 screw Fender tremolo
I am assuming that this is where the 2 screws that mount the tremolo go.
Also note that the cavity is widened somewhat to allow for the unit to swing forwards and back.
cheers, Mark.
Cavity widened for rearwards movement.
Widened for forwards movement.
Only 2 screws in the top for now.
cheers, Mark.
I discovered when placing the 2 bridge mounting screws on the 2 end holes from the original bridge,
the scale length is still a few mm too long.
So...dowelled them up and re-positioned closer to the neck.
It now sits thus...
Next is to screw the centre block.
As I'm using '10' guage strings I only need one spring for the 'up' bends.
Now I have to put all the electrics back in and solder a ground wire.
cheers, Mark.
I love jobs that involve very significant over-capitalisation!!!I am following through on the threat to install a $230 tremolo system into a $30 guitar.
It makes me feel better about all the times I've done it
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
As you already had to enlarge the trem block hole, did you enlarge it even further after moving the unit 2mm further forwards?
Hi Simon. Not that I remember, however it's a bit redundant now as I'll explain.
My first attempt ended in failure. The usual result when I attempt anything new.
I think the neck was not mounted correctly which in hindsight meant the 2mm movement.
At first, I simply couldn't get this damned thing to stay in tune.
Any bar movement and it would go out. Very frustrating.
Thing is, with all the extensive reading I've done found that those with a negative experience with the Trem-King seemed to have spent little time fiddling with it.
Anyway, As I just happened to have yet another $30 guitar handy (here's one I prepared earlier) Decided to roll back to square one.
Having a second go, Noticed all the little details that were missed in the glow of anticipation the first time around.
The 2 outside holes of the 6 tremolo mount were in fact the ones to use.
This time it was a case of routing out about 5mm of wood from under the rear (leaving the top 3mm of the cavity hole as is.
Then chamfer some of the wood from the front...(just as I pictured in post #3).
I used the same neck from experiment 1.
This time I noticed that the bridges could be set quite low.
Here's the 2nd iteration.
From the back...
I'm using some ugly but functional roller string trees plus a Tusq nut.
One thing I may require is a set of locking tuners.
I can now tune it up...perform some dive bombs and it returns to pitch.
Pulling the bar up though still leaves it a tad sharp, but I've got some further investigations to go.
So far it's been quite good. I like that the action stays put whilst using the trem.
cheers, Mark.
P.S. The keen eyes will note that I only have 5 strings.
Experiment 1 did involve 2 broken 'E' stings.
Last edited by king casey; 07-02-2020 at 04:40 AM.
Realised that I've never had much experience using the whammy bar.
Only seemed to be the original 'strat' version and usually ended up blocking it.
Finally got this one set up to the best of my abilities.
Before fitting a new set of strings, I concocted a version of 'nut sauce'...
After a couple of days trying to get the hang of whammy bar usage, it's all going very well.
I like the way the action stays put when using the bar and seems to hold tune despite 'average' tuners.
I'll give it a thorough work-out and then perhaps get some video demo.
cheers, Mark.
Well I'm digging into whammy bar usage like never before.
Tuning is holding up quite well and I'm seriously considering getting a 'Tele' version...
5 days in then TWANG!!
E six and D four stings suddenly let go.
Investigating the result
Both broke where they bend around the main shaft by the looks.
I remember noticing some increased 'creaks' from this area over the past day.
I'm also using an el-cheapo "Darco" brand strings from JB-HiFi.
The action has risen somewhat and the saddles are in their lowest setting down on the body.
So I've put a shim in the neck and replaced the 2 strings.
I'll now give it another work-out and see if the issue recurs.
May have to try better quality strings...
Then if the problem persists perhaps some strengthening solder to that area of new strings.
cheers, Mark.
Originally Posted by king casey
Well I'm digging into whammy bar usage like never before.
Tuning is holding up quite well and I'm seriously considering getting a 'Tele' version...
5 days in then TWANG!!
E six and D four stings suddenly let go.
Investigating the result
Both broke where they bend around the main shaft by the looks.
I remember noticing some increased 'creaks' from this area over the past day.
I'm also using an el-cheapo "Darco" brand strings from JB-HiFi.
The action has risen somewhat and the saddles are in their lowest setting down on the body.
So I've put a shim in the neck and replaced the 2 strings.
I'll now give it another work-out and see if the issue recurs.
May have to try better quality strings...
Then if the problem persists perhaps some strengthening solder to that area of new strings.
cheers, Mark.
How straight is the neck?, I'm suspecting that the reason why the action was getting a bit high is because the neck is developing a forward-bow, an electric guitar neck is actually supposed to have a very slight amount of forward bow to it, you can check it by putting a capo on the neck just behind the first fret, then fret each of the E-strings at about the 17th fret or just in front of the last fret at the heel end of the neck, and then use either a .01 inch, or a .012 inch automotive feeler gauge to check the gap between the underside of each of the E-strings and the 8th fret, and adjust the tension on the truss rod till the feeler gauge just fits in the gap.
Sometimes over time the slight forward bow in the neck gradually shifts according to the climate and you'll find that it affects the action.
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