My first build: DTL-1

[Melkor]

Enjoy the experience mate, and DONT RUSH IT!

[Fatboy]

Hi there, if it helps I have been looking at frets and asked similar Q's to you but not so comprehensively.
These are the cheapest Hosco but files I have found in the UK.
https://www.gluedtomusic.com/product...ic-guitar-set/

Have a read through my build log which may help you.
The boys answering your Q's are very knowledgeable, helpful and friendly !
Cheers, FB (ex Reading resident also).

[Simon Barden]

Those Hosco files are quite good for acoustics, but with the smallest file at 0.016", are really too big for electrics unless you are using really heavy strings and down-tuning (or have a baritone neck).

[gpjt]

Thanks again for the advice, everyone! I hope that this build goes well, but if it doesn't there will only be my own ham-fistedness to blame :-)

I wound up getting the 2.5mm version of the crowning file that Simon linked -- it's from the same maker as the one I found, and the extra GBP3 sounds like a worthwhile investment given that it can have the other size files added if necessary later on if I find myself doing a build with a different fret size.

Thanks also for the thoughts on those "nut files", Simon and McCreed -- I suspected they might be too cheap to be the real thing. I think I'll just try sanding the bottom of the bone nut to get it to the right height -- if the worst comes to the worst and I take too much off, a replacement is easy enough to get.

It's obvious now, but I'd never really considered the fact that different string widths need different nut slots. Possibly I will want to get some proper files in the future -- the G on my LPJ sticks a little, and while a quick pull on the string when downtuning or a tap between the nut and the headtuner when tuning upwards is enough to work around it, there clearly is a bit of an issue there (though maybe just a tad more pencil lead next string change is all that's needed). Also, Japanese-made precision files (thanks, McCreed!) trigger my Tool Acquisition Syndrome even more than it's already been set off by the other bits. Just a small matter of negotiating more tool space from the other half...

Anyway, all other tools also bought and on their way. The kit itself is apparently in customs in the UK, so waiting for the card from the delivery company telling me how much I need to pay in import duty...

Also probably time to start thinking seriously about the finish...

[McCreed]

I think that a radius block is better than a levelling bar, as you can't guarantee with a levelling bar that you are taking the same amount off the frets all over their length(or should that be width?).

Fair enough. To each his own etc.
I find I have more control with an 8" levelling bar (not a file btw).
What I find with radius blocks is that you can end up taking more off of the frets than is really necessary (especially on the ends).

IMO this can lead to premature replacement. What I mean is you might only get 2 full levels out the lifespan of the frets, where otherwise you might get 3 before having pull & replace.

Also, fretboards are rarely a perfect 9.5", 12" or whatever, so using a bar can compensate for those little imperfections.
Then there's compound radius necks...

I'm not saying definitively that one is better than the other, just that my preference is the bar.

[Fatboy]

Those Hosco files are quite good for acoustics, but with the smallest file at 0.016", are really too big for electrics unless you are using really heavy strings and down-tuning (or have a baritone neck).

Aargh !
Simon, yes you are correct.
Meant to link these, same price but leccy guitar set.
https://www.gluedtomusic.com/product...ic-guitar-set/

[McCreed]

I've not used those files, but I think they cut a more "V" shaped slot as opposed to a perpendicular one like edge-cut files do.

Like everything, it's personal preference. There are arguments for and against V'ed slots vs straight and I'm not going to open a debate on it, but it's worth pointing out so you can make your own decision. (after you've done your head in with exhaustive interweb research )

[Simon Barden]

All the action (see what I did there) happens at the bottom of the slot. Certainly once you get above the height of the string, it doesn't matter what width the rest of the slot is. But a V-shaped notch won't offer quite as much resistance to sideways string bends as a straight-sided notch. Obviously, the shallower the 'V', the less resistance there will be.

There is a strong argument for filing down the top of the nut so that the depth of the nut slots is minimal. I've seen just half the string height given as optimal, but to me, it's too easy to push the string out of the slot when bending near the nut. So I opt for the full string height, or just over. Leaving the nut high with deep nut slots means that the two ends of the nut are vulnerable to breaking off if you catch them (I've done this so I know). The two end slots only have half the width (or less) of nut material on the outside compared to in-between the other string slots, so are already comparatively weaker. If this end bit of nut is 3mm high (above the bottom of the slot) compared to say 1mm high, then you'll get 3x the leverage force on the material at the base of the slot if you catch it or knock it, making it far more likely for the end to snap off.

Filing the top of the nut down will also mean that cosmetically, the difference between straight and V slots will be minimal.

[McCreed]

There is a strong argument for filing down the top of the nut so that the depth of the nut slots is minimal.

Filing the top of the nut down will also mean that cosmetically, the difference between straight and V slots will be minimal.

I agree with Simon on filing the top of the nut, but have a slightly different approach.

I file and shape the top of the nut so the E-A-D strings are about 80-90% down in the nut slots, the G is JUST a bee's dick above the nut, and the top of the B-E strings are just even with the top of the nut.

[Fretworn]

Two alternative nut flie strategies are -

1) use feeler gauges that you have files notches into down one edge (this idea comes from Will Kelly or Hard Knock guitars). I find this works best for the thinner strings. If you use imperial feelers gauges rather than metric it is easy to work out what size you need for each groove. I tend to use one gauge up, eg a .010 gauge for a .009 e string etc.

2) glue pieces of old wound strings to pieces of dowel and use these a nut files for the wound strings (this idea courtesy of the Dan Erlewine himself)