MY JM-1 First ever build

[caseyone1]

After applying the undercoat it really emphasised all the tool marks I missed. this morning I started sanding and realised how deep the undercoat has filled.
After sanding every ripple and wave, especially on the edges, I set about a second undercoat.
So right now it’s drying, it recommends 30mins to top coat, I am thinking 6 hours and a light sand and then the Wildfire red.
Pictures of that new coat next.

[caseyone1]

Wildfire red, black edging, little more red
https://ibb.co/6R9cwTJ

https://ibb.co/y6HbtPP

https://ibb.co/yNz8fmY

Next a little more black

[Fretworn]

Hate to say it, but not very much of the red will show once the pick guard is on, unless you are going for a clear, or radically reshaped pickguard.

[caseyone1]

So it has been a long time, since Jan when I last posted.
Well my paint went off the rails, I took a hiatus to clear the mind and now I am back on it. My big Plan for water-based paint job failed miserably.
I had to take the whole thing back to scratch, sanded my way to disinterest.
Well I finally went for a stain and black burst, looking to assemble he wiring now I cannot seem to locate the right diagram.

[jugglindan]

You can usually find a wiring diagram for any combination of pickups, tone, and volume controls here. Also try the Pitbull wiring diagrams collection, they are indexed by kit model.

[BJP]

Hi caseyone1,

The wiring diagram for your kit is here - https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...s/pdf/JM-1.pdf

[caseyone1]

Got an ISSUE:
https://imgur.com/a/jaSuaDB
Bridge posts sitting proud and I can’t get them in deeper, yet they are deep enough holes

[colin2121]

They need to go deeper.
When putting in the posts did you rub some wax onto the studs?
The wax helps them slide in.
If you don't have wax, soap will sometimes do. Or rub the studs with candle wax.
Also best to screw the posts out of the studs. Makes it easier to tap the studs in with a hammer and block.

[Simon Barden]

In theory you just need more force, though if you've got finish round the bottom of the stud holes they may not want to go down easily and the splines (which make things easier) normally don't go all the way to the end. If you've got a clamp that's big enough, you can try using the clamp to push the studs in nice and flat. Don't forget to use a block on the rear to stop it marking and mask up round the stud to prevent any slippage from marring the finish.

Otherwise you may need to remove the studs, and widen the bottom of the holes slightly (run a suitable sized drill down by hand). The post thread is normally M8, so if you've got a long M8 bolt, take out the post, put in the M8 bolt and keep turning and it should pull the stud out. If the wood is too soft, this may not work. Sometimes putting some other hard object as a base down the hole helps, but you won't get anything down that's larger than the end of the bolt itself. Otherwise you'll really need a stud puller.

[caseyone1]

Thanks, I used the manual online, but they didn’t have mine, I will follow your links.