Trying my first electric...ES1F

[Johncoste]

Thanks for the advice! I'll order some mini pots from one of those suppliers. I have a ways to go getting the finish on before I'm ready to install them.

[fender3x]

I have an ES template in PDF form that I have glued onto cardboard or thin wood to make a controls template. I can send it to you if you PM me your email.

I used Bourns minis in mine because I wanted sold shafts. I *think* I got them from Mouser but I'll check if you are interested. I got the long shaft. Short will work, but long are easier when you are fighting with the pot to get it up through that little hole...I agree with everyone that minis are much easier to get through the f hole once there is anything soldered to them.

I prefer solid shafts most of the time, but even more so on an ES. I used split/splined shaft pots on my first ES. Trying to get the knob off of one of them I pulled the shaft completely out of the pot. Not a big deal on a Tele to replace, but on an ES....

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[fender3x]

Found it! Here's the info to get Bourns minis...

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rrencycode=USD

If you want the push pulls that's this one....

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rrencycode=USD



Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[Johncoste]

Thanks! Check your in-box.

[Johncoste]

I've spent a little while boring out the control holes to fit the wider shafts of upgraded pots. Once that was done, and the neck glued up I began the finishing process.

I have a compressor and gravity feed spray gun. The last time I finished a guitar I rigged a spray booth in my garage and sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer. That project was 12 years, 2500 miles and four homes ago. After watching the Dingotone video here I decided not to dig out the spray equipment, but to attempt a wipe on finish. Dingotone isn't available in the USA, but Adam suggested a similar product. The process is going to be long. According to the directions there are three different base layers, which require multiple coats each. Drying time is 24 to 48 hours per coat. Because I have bills to pay, I only have weekends to devote to my kit. I figure it won't hurt to allow each coat to cure for six or seven days.

This wipe on finish, from Wudtone, is called Cherry Flamenco. This is what the first coat looks like:



It's really not quite that orange in the daylight. Each successive layer, and each successive coat should darken and deepen the color...we'll see...

[fender3x]

Looks good!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[McCreed]

That will look stunning with a clear coat on there! (looking good already)

Are you doing the back & sides the same colour, or something of more contrast?

[Johncoste]

As my first attempt I planned to keep it simple. Back, sides and neck are all the same cherry red. I'm undecided on the headstock. I considered gluing up an ebony veneer, but would have to have done that before starting the finish. I'm considering a black lacquer from a rattle can or just clear coating.

[Johncoste]

OK, since my last post I added two coats of the "2d Base Layer" of Wudtone. I'm not sure the pictures accurately show the difference:



In the real world I can see it is starting to get a deeper tone to the finish.

I also thought about it and decided to take a step back and laminate an ebony veneer to the headstock. This is something I probably should have done before gluing in the neck...but...

Does anyone have any idea what I should do to finish the veneer? My fretboard is ebony and I will probably only oil it occasionally (I live in the desert and the climate here requires it). Should I do the same with the veneer? Should I try some kind of clear coat? My inclination is to treat it the same as the fretboard, but I'm wondering if anyone has any other ideas.

[McCreed]

I can't speak from experience, but I'd be hesitant to use fingerboard oil on the veneer.
As veneer is quite thin, my concern would be that, over time, oil could possibly soak in deep enough that the glue may be affected an dlift the veneer. However this is complete conjecture on my part.

If I were doing it, I'd go with whatever clear coat used on the body for the headstock.