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Thread: RCA-4 Bass wiring

  1. #21
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    I don't want to do Stereo, so back to a Master Volume/ Coil Split option.

  2. #22
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    So... I used the provided pots, switch and output jack provided with the PBG Kit, along with the provided wire for soldering.
    Definitely not enough wire, for me, and the color scheme is all over the place.
    Researching always refers to Black, White and maybe Red as go to's as color reference, yet my kit came with a plethora of short wires and colors.
    What is the gauge wire that is supplied with PBG Kit guitars and basses?
    Right now, I used what wires fit what I needed to make connections, be what color they be, but thinking about rewiring and all I got is 18 gauge wire without buying 100 yards of Box Store roll (if I can find it) or pay Stew Mac a King's Ransom for 12 inches of wire.

    Kinda frustrated again.

  3. #23
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    3mm Automotive wire works fine. I realise you are in the states.. but something like this should be readily available.

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...60602#start=14

    Honestly, the colour confusion is really common - different manufacturers do different colour codings so there is no set in stone rule like 'Black' being the earth. Add to that - there is always more than one way of wiring and it's easy to get muddled up.

    It might be helpful if you draw up what you have on paper with the stated colours and post that. Its easier to work out in diagram form for me at least. Then we can draw the connections you need to make to achieve the controls you are after. I'm getting better at it, but I always get someone like Weirdbits, DrNormis or Marcel to check and confirm.

    As a general overview, the signal is generated in the pickups and you are trying to control its path to ground via the controls and amp. So all of the earths in the guitar need to resolve to the output jack. The circuit is not completed until you plug the guitar in. It can be helpful just to focus on the hot path through the components first, then worry about earthing everything.

    Don't get discouraged, I think my first kit I had about 4 goes at it before I got it working and managed to toast a few pots in the process. All part of the fun.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
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  4. #24
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    I try to use the same color as the diagram I am using, and I often draw my own diagram. That way I am working from a diagram that uses accurate pup wire colors, and I can't change the other wire colors to whatever I have on hand.

    Gauge does not matter. The current in a passive circuit is so small that very small guages are just as good as fatter guages.

    I have never bought wire for a guitar. I recycle. Electronics don't get thrown away at my house before getting stripped of useful stuff--like wire.

    A good source of wire for guitars are old serial cables. The old ones are fairly fat and have 9-10 different colors of wire. Easy to solder, and have enough wire for a bunch of guitars.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    You can, indeed, get wire like what Sonic said in in auto parts stores in the US, and even cheaper at Harbor Freight if you have one close. I use them more in cabs than guitars because the guages tend to be a bit thick for guitars, but they will work fine.

    Can't agree with him more about this...

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    It might be helpful if you draw up what you have on paper with the stated colours and post that. Its easier to work out in diagram form for me at least. Then we can draw the connections you need to make to achieve the controls you are after. I'm getting better at it, but I always get someone like Weirdbits, DrNormis or Marcel to check and confirm.


    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Understand the challenge with the wiring - the reason I've gone multi colour on the wiring diagrams which may not refer to colours of wires in the kit is to try to make it easier to see what goes where. Always happy for suggestions on how we can improve the diagrams.

  7. #27
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    OK, I followed the PBG RCA-4 wiring diagram. All went well, in regards to soldering it up.
    I actually got sound once complete.
    But... my pots where reverse, clockwise went off, counter clock was full on.
    Noise, or interference was minimal due to not having the guard covered in copper, I hope.
    I had checked all connections with a multimeter, and all zeroed out. Copper cavities too.
    Once I realized I used the opposing lugs, I swapped them out.
    Now they operate correctly, but there are some issues.
    Full on is quiet, both pups, but if I back off the volume knobs, lots of noise, and they don't shut off as I would expect.
    Could I have toasted either, or both volume pots?
    I am glad I at least got sound, and not too bad, at full volume.
    I'm not well trained in this area, just trying it out.
    Why are the volumes giving noise and not cutting off when I back off the volumes?
    Actually, the neck pup, PBG Single coil, is quite quiet, and boomy.

  8. #28
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Well, I had the middle contacts of the 3 way switch swapped too. I reversed these, now I don't zero out on any thing but the middle to ground on the output jack. I keep getting a reading of 3.8? Checking everything again.

  9. #29
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Seems my pickups are wired Out of Phase, how would I wire these opposite?

  10. #30
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    They are humbuckers aren't they. Individual coils in each pickup out of phase, or one pair out of phase with the other pair?
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
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    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
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