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Thread: Lyn #19 - Single Cut LP Jnr

  1. #31
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    And more problems....

    I had painters tape on the body so that I could mark exactly where the bridge post holes would go. I used a punch to mark the position and proceeded to drill the 12mm holes with my brace and bit and I didn't realise that the bit had wandered on the tape and I drilled 2 perfect holes IN THE WRONG PLACE!! That's a lesson I will remember for the future.

    Not deterred I got out my plug maker bit but it is of such poor quality that I was not able to drill a plug with my hand tools and finally I had to surrender my ethos of hand tools only and get out my electric drill.

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    Did I mention that the plug bit was poor quality? It is so bad that it burnt the plugs and discoloured them so that, even though I lined up the grain pretty well, the plugs now stick out like the proverbials.

    I am not overly concerned as I am pretty sure that the post holes in the soft pine are going to deform with the string tension and I will have to look into reinforcing them in the future.

    Last job for the body is drilling the hole for the jack plug.

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    At least I got something right with this build. LOL

    Cheers guys
    rob

  2. #32
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    *Jack socket hole. The jack plug is on the end of the guitar lead.[/pedant]

  3. #33
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    LOL. OK Simon, looks like I got nothing right on this guitar then. Hahaha

  4. #34
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It may be worth seeing of you can get some longer post inserts. The longer the insert, the lower the average pressure on the soft pine. You'll want ones with an M8 thread and a 12mm outside diameter I find an 11.5mm drill works best with them.

    The non-splined section is 11.5mm in diameter, with 12mm being pretty much the spline diameter. With a 12mm hole, there isn't much wood for the inserts to grip.

    Alternatively, the screwed M8 nut inserts might be better for pine, certainly in terms of reducing any risk of a pull out, though they generally use a smaller hole. Something like this (but more locally sourced): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alloy-Furni...iy&sr=1-4&th=1

    You need to find ones (like those ones I found) where the hex key insert at the top isn't too deep, otherwise you can end up with very little of the bridge post screwed in if it's set quite high. Also, 25mm long are preferable to 20mm.

  5. #35
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    @ Simon
    Thanks once again for your insight mate. I will wait until she is assembled to see if it is worth spending any more time/money on her. But you have given me hope that all is not lost.

    @Colin
    Quote Originally Posted by colin2121 View Post
    On a positive note - it looks like the ply has not pulled apart this time.
    Yeah, I see that as a bonus. LOL

    Cheers Guys
    rob

  6. #36
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Today I got the staining done.

    Running short on cash so I had to make do with whatever leftovers I had. I used a combination of Feast Watson Black Japan and some left over black stamp pad ink from a previous build, FW Jarrah and FW Golden Teak to do the burst.

    When I do bursts the blend lines are always a bit hit and miss, but I think it will do. Hopefully it will look a bit better when I start applying the finish.

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    I was going to use my usual finish of TruOil, and bring it to a high gloss, but I don't have enough left in the bottle to do the guitar. So I had a look around and found a rusty old tin of MinWax Satin Poly. So Satin Poly it will be.

    The tin is several years old and the MinWax has gotten quite thick so that when I did a test on some scrap pine it left ridge marks from the cotton application cloth. I tried thinning it with White Spirit and Shellite and I think that the White Spirit might be the way to go. It thinned it out quite nicely and had a good working life before it started drying out.

    In hindsight I think a Satin finish might suit this guitar. Well at least, that's what I'm telling myself.

    Cheers
    rob
    Last edited by robin; 02-12-2020 at 03:01 PM.

  7. #37
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Looks a pretty decent burst to me...
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

  8. #38
    Excellent looking burst Robin.


    Quote Originally Posted by robin View Post
    and some left over black stamp pad ink from a previous build
    Have you used stamp ink before?

    May be O.K. but I had dire consequences when mixed with Tru-Oil.

    cheers, Mark

  9. #39
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim, but some pictures do lie. lol.

    rob

  10. #40
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by king casey View Post
    Excellent looking burst Robin.




    Have you used stamp ink before?

    May be O.K. but I had dire consequences when mixed with Tru-Oil.

    cheers, Mark
    Thanks Mark, yep, used it on a couple of builds so far, both with TO finishes. No probs. I have no idea if it is water or spirit based. I guess that might make a difference. I must have been lucky.

    rob

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